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TR4 rear shock links

To: "Phil Ethier" <pethier@isd.net>
Subject: TR4 rear shock links
From: David Massey <105671.471@compuserve.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 08:48:09 -0500
Cc: "[unknown]" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message text written by "Phil Ethier"
>Gas tank:  No signs of leaking at the fuel line.  The only remaining
suspect
>on the fuel smell in the rear of the car is the gauge-sender gasket, so
>that's a final.  I will get several of the gaskets and see how many I can
>destroy trying to install one without removing the tank from the car.

If the TR4 is similar to the TR6 (and I think in this aspect it is) I would
recommend biting the bullet and pulling the fuel filler tube, and removing
the upper four bolts.  Then loosen the bottom two bolts and tip the tank
forward  (rearward) until you have direct access to the fuel sender.  In
this manner you avoid disconnecting the fuel line (by far the worst part of
tank removal) but you enjoy the benefit of using a straight screwdriver
instead of one of those (PITA) right angle screwdrivers (especially if the
screws are frozen or the heads are stripped out).

>Lever-shock (damper) links:  The car has exhibited a clunk in the rear
when
>encountering bumps in the road.  I figured this to be bad bushings in the
>links.  This is indeed the case.  On both sides of the car, the upper end
of
>the link is loose on the bolt which attaches to the shock-absorber arm.
>
>As for the removal of the old links, I met with the same success and lack
>thereof on both sides. <Snip>

Phil, 

The only way I have been able to disconnect the shock link from the shock
arm is to remove the two pieces from the car, clamp the shock arm in a vice
and hammer the link out of the arm. (I use a BIG copper hammer and
penetrating oil) Getting the link out from between the spring bracket and
frame is rather easy once you put some wieght on the axle (to compress the
spring) AND use a pry bar to bend the spring away from the frame about 1/4
inch.  Some antisieze on the taper pins will make the job easier next time.

And I replaced the shock bolts with some hardware store variety grade 8
socket head cap screws and grade 8 nuts for the same reason.

Dave (Just did this on the TR3) Massey
St. Louis, MO USA

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