Jim, I too had the same problem. What I did was remove the rear shackle
completely, jacked up the rear of the frame enough that I could "swing" the
whole leaf spring as far forward and as far back as possible.
This will "Crack" the front "eye". Do this many times , if it does not work
I drilled out the rubber with my drill and pulled off the leaf spring. I
then CAREFULLY used my grinder to take of the remains of the "eye" bushing.
Worked like a charm.
Pat
Victoria BC
----- Original Message -----
From: suhring <suhring@lancnews.infi.net>
To: a Wallace <wallaces@superaje.com>
Cc: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2001 8:08 AM
Subject: Re: 3a leaf springs
>
> Jim:
>
> I will allow others to respond to your first question since I did
> not experience any real problems with getting the leaf springs off
> the chassis. As to your other questions, I offer the following:
>
> b) There are companies that specialize in shock systems for all
> types of vehicles (here in Harrisburg, PA there is Stanley Springs
> that have just about everything you could ever want for trucks to
> cars). If you take one of these shops the same plate from the
> other leaf spring, I would bet they could replace it for you. Note
> that the manual does provide the correct dimensions for the leafs
> so that they line up properly in relation to the center hole and
> clamps.
>
> c) I dismantled my leafs by bending back the clamps. To do this
> I would recommend a good bench vice to hold the leaf spring, a
> large screw driver and a crow bar. Once you get the clamp started,
> they are not that hard to bend back so you can remove each of the
> leafs. I then used my angle grinder with a wire brush to clean
> each one up. Primed and painted each leaf. When reassembling, line
> up each leaf with the center hole and the longer side facing
> toward the silent block bushing (front), I used a cut down 3/8" bolt
> to assure they stayed aligned. I also smeared some grease between
> each leaf to prevent squeaking, etc. Then use your bench vice to
> close the clamps back into position. This will need to be done by
> moving the leaf spring so that you close the clamps from both the
> sides and the top. Finally, I gave finishing coat of fresh paint.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Scott Suhring
> Elizabethtown, PA
> '70 TR6
> '59 TR3
>
> a Wallace wrote:
> >
> > I've been stripping the frame of its running gear, and last night took
off
> > (tried on one side) the leaf springs. I'm left with three questions for
the
> > more experienced than I:
> > a) In the case of an extremely reluctant front eye, what have you done
to
> > remove from the car, that does not involve fire? I have applied
penetrating
> > oil, tried a puller (worked on the other side, but only stretches the
> > rubber), and used a hand sledge and drift, to no avail.
> > b) In that same set of leaves, when I removed the U-bolts and bottom
plate,
> > half of the shortest leaf fell on the floor. Now what do I do? Where can
> > one get a short leaf for a 60 TR3a?
> > c) How do you clean up leaf springs? I imagine sandblasting would leave
a
> > bunch of sand between the leaves.
> > Answers to any of these would be greatly appreciated.
> > Thanks,
> > Jim
> > TS81417L
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