Along with the lower actual ground speed at hiway RPMS with the
Panasport/Mini-light wheels with my 165 x 15 tires, this wheel swap
exacerbated the occurrance of high rpm engine vibration due what clearly
is the historical challenge of Fan imbalance.
When restoring the car, I cleaned and 'adjusted' the blades, then
painted the fan. I used the balance piece that came off in exactly the
same position as it was. 'original' at least since the professional
engine overhaul of 1978. I also measured from the radiator the distance
to each fan blade and all are within a 1/16", so its unlikely another
'adjustment' would bring any improvement.
Now that I am occassionally 'functionally living with the TR', I had
come to be dismayed by three things:
-the higher RPM vibration -which limited my enjoyment of the car and
also inhibits high revs as I don't want to subject the engine and
drivetrain to 'stress', but were necessary on the interstate run to keep
from getting run over by SUV's and Trucks.
-The fan sucks up (even at idle) road dust and leaf bits into to what
was my pristine engine bay, and with the blue metallic color-
immediately shows everywhere (unlike the solid colored cars);
-In spring, fall and now winter- the fan is unnecessary for cooling,
especially at start-up and then on the highway- or anytime the car is
over (say) 2200 RPM.
So I decided to swap to an electric fan (yes, I'll save everything for
return to original if so inclined in the future, probably mount the fan
and extension as 'Triumph Art'). Thanks to list member Greg Petrolati
(greenman 62@hotmail.com) I now have an electric fan for the car, and
when I get over this flu, and after the rebuild of the brake master
cylinder, I'll tackle the fan swap.
I am aware that the swap to the electric fan will require removing the
radiator, the four blade fan and the Fan hub extension. This will
require replacing the Bolt called in the Triumph Workshop Manual
'Starting Handle Dog Bolt' reference #143, MOSS pictorial reference #69
with a smaller bolt to secure the Pulley hub back to the Crankshaft.
(This bolt a leftover from the TR3 and early 4's, both of which had
openings in the radiator to enable the neat starting handle option).
Being 'House bound with Lucas Disease', I'm researching. My question is:
Does anyone know the Head size,thread size and length of the replacement
bolt, and if a disc washer is recommended for use prior to bolt
insertion thru the Pulley hub to the crank in this conversion? Also
curious if the short crank bolt used for the pulley hub on a TR6.
Sure I could wait till I take the bolt off, go to the hardware store to
match threads- but then I'd remain 'unknowledgeable' till then.
Another question, while I'm in there, is it feasible to replace the
round crankshaft oil seal. I see a faint trace of a weep -noting
major-yet. Does the front oil seal replacement require removal of the
timing cover? The workshop manual is unclear on this procedure. On
another diagram I see that the front sealing block is accessable only
when one removes the oil pan (which I will do to renew the leaky pan
gasket).Without actually looking at the engine with fan and hub off- any
knowledge would be appreciated.
Sherman
Sherman D. Taffel
Columbia,MD
TR4 CT40054L 'The Toy'
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