Blubaugh wrote:
>
> As a new list subscriber,
Welcome to the list !
> Somewhere, somewhere, but I cannot remember where, I did see an address for
> someone offering a kit to convert a TR2 - TR3 drivetrain to a Toyota Supra
> 5 speed gearbox.
It's been frequently discussed on this list (but of course I've
forgotten it <g>). Try searching the archives at
http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=triumphs
There were actually several different kits discussed, one from New
Zealand (Conversion Components ?) and two from a company in Germany.
They all seemed pretty pricey to me.
> (Are there
> any TR4 overdrive units available?)
Numerous places have these available, for a price. One source is
Rimmers, in the UK
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/
Note that the same gearbox (with minor changes) was used through the TR6
line. Early TR6 boxes will "dropin", later ones may require a modified
pilot bearing. A J-type OD (used on later TR6) will require some other
mods (custom crossmember, etc.) but can be made to work and is usually
less expensive (supply and demand, there are more of them in the
breaker's yards in Europe).
> Do miracles ever happen twice in a person's
> lifetime??
I believe so, and IMO you've chosen an excellent engine to learn to
rebuild : simple, tough, and forgiving. The first TR3 engine I rebuilt
was in at least as bad a shape, but the rebuild worked out very well.
>
> My gearbox is a mess with excessive growling in first gear and almost no
> synchronizer remaining between first and second gear.
Before giving up on it, I'd pull it apart and examine. You'll probably
need a new layshaft, bearings and synchro rings, but they're all
relatively inexpensive. However, if the gears or mainshafts are ruined,
start looking for another trans. (Let me know if you do, I might have
some parts suitable for a 'rustoration'.)
>
> No significant change in compression on #3 when
> wet tested. Does this confirm "valve" instead of bad or broken rings?
Yup.
> Should I count on new sleves and pistons this time around? (I
> need to be cost effective on this job.)
Probably, although if the compression is really that high (and doesn't
change wet), you may be able to get away with just new rings. Boring
the sleeves (which requires new pistons) will only save a few $$, and
it's iffy whether the original 83mm liners can be bored to 86mm. Other
oversize pistons are really tough to find/expensive (except for 87mm and
86mm+.030"). Note that, if the crank is good, the bearings, liners and
pistons can be changed with the engine still in the car, which makes it
a lot less work. Haynes recommends changing rod bearings every 30K
miles, as 'insurance'.
> In a TR2 of my vintage, is it true
> that carriers for the camshaft are machined into the block and if these are
> worn a new engine is the only answer?
According to my parts manual, cam bearing inserts were introduced at
TS8997E. I believe the early blocks can be machined to take the
inserts, but I'm not sure how cost effective it is.
> Does anyone have experience with or
> suggestions for or against grinding away the spiral oil throw groves on the
> crank and going with the alternative "positive" main seal??
Let your pocketbook be your guide. The cost is appreciable, the benefit
is only a chance at having a car that doesn't "mark it's spot". See
http://englishcars.com/trsc/tech%20articles/mainseal.htm
for a description of some problems to watch for with the lip-type seal.
The original scroll seal actually works fairly well on a fresh engine
(although you'll probably want to replace it as part of your rebuild).
> Since my
> engine seems to have a wide range on problems, would a rebuilt "exchange"
> engine be a better or more cost effective solution? I think these are
> available from TRF.
Depends a little on your abilities, and the price you place on your
time. Assuming your time costs nothing (it's a hobby, right ?) I think
you'll find it far more cost effective to rebuild your own, even if you
have to do it 2 or 3 times.
>
> Rob Blubaugh
> 4805 Locksley Dr. E.
> Rensselaer, IN 47978
It's been a long time since I lived in Rensselaer, but there used to be
only one place in town that did engine machine work, and they charged
appropriately. Before you commit to anything, invest in a few phone
calls to Lafayette or Indy. If Phil Brusnahan's son is still in
business, he might still have that lathe ...
One other option you might consider : See if you can locate someone who
would like to trade you a TR3(A) for your TR2. Since the TR2s are less
common, you might find someone willing to trade you even for a car in
better condition ...
Randall
59 TR3A daily driver
Lakewood, CA
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