From: "Taffel, Sherman" <STaffel@bcps.k12.md.us>
Subject: RE: Amarillo Texas Steakhouse/ Oil Pressure changes and Fix with
10w-40
I found the timing of the list quite ironic and helpful this past week with
the posts on the oil pressure drop with 10W40 vs 20W50, which I too have
always used. However, I noticed right before the oil change that it took a
'longer time' for the valve train to get oil with the 20W50 as the temps
dropped below 50^. So in prep for winter and the planned oil change I
bought case of 10W40. Just days after my oil change to 10W40, a list
member reported low oil pressure with 10W40, and someone on the list
recommended changing the oil back to 20W50 from 10W40. On mornings like the
ones we've had the past few days- OAT's at or below freezing- that may not
be the best solution. I tried another option I used in the past! But I'm
getting ahead of the Go-Karts.
<
Sherman,
If 10W seems to give better cold start function than 20W, but when fully warm
50 is better than 40, then
you might look for 10W-50 or some such thing. I must admit that I have never
seen such a beast in my
local discount auto store, but I BELIEVE that something like 5W-50 or 10W-50 is
available somewhere.
Redline? Probably a synthetic oil for that rather wide viscosity range.
As for the new leaks, you probably cleaned your oil system better than ever
before and got the crud
out of the potential leak points. Good for you. Your engine will run cleaner
now!
DId I understand you that you had no pressure relief ball installed? Is that
possible? Was it not
always sending a considerable amount of oil thru the bypass? Does the relief
valve relieve itself
directly back into the pan?
-Tony
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