Justin :
It may be possible to retain your stock fan with the Hayden, it seems to vary
somewhat from car to car. I actually never checked on my current car, just set
out to return it to the configuration of my previous TR3A (which lost it's
original fan first, due to a minor accident). Note that the fan only helps in
extended low speed conditions, like stop and go traffic. It doesn't do much,
if anything, for cooling above 40 mph.
There is no need to drill holes in the radiator, the fan comes with plastic
rods that simply get pushed between the fins. You do want to be sure the rods
wind up where they are not touching the vertical water tubes. If this mounting
concerns you, any radiator shop should be able to fabricate mounts that are
welded to the sides of the radiator.
The fan draws a fair amount of current, and any voltage drop in the wiring will
reduce it's effectiveness, so I installed a fan relay salvaged from a Chevy.
At the moment, I'm still using a manual switch (spare wiper switch mounted in
the dash hole for the heater, so it 'belongs' and doesn't need a new hole), but
I plan to convert to an adjustable thermostat. I don't care for the adjustable
thermostat that Hayden sells, so I'm creating my own. Once it's reliable, I
plan to lose the dash switch, and I don't feel an indicator is necessary.
Did your engine balancer first balance the crank without the fan and then add
the fan ? Or just balance the whole assembly together ? If the latter, I feel
you should either keep the fan, or better yet have the engine rebalanced
without it.
The concern about removing the fan really has nothing to do with balance, but
with the resonant frequencies of the crankshaft. Since I've run for many years
without a dampener, I'd say you are probably OK without one on the street.
However, I'm told that one of the major resonances is at 5200 rpm, so if you
plan to run the engine at that speed for any length of time, you'd better do
something.
Note that the original generator cannot keep up with the headlights and Hayden
at the same time (it has a hard time with just the headlights). Being caught
in traffic at night will put a large drain on your battery. If you don't
expect that to happen very often, or are willing to put a battery charger on
when you get home, then you are probably OK. I installed a 63 amp alternator
to cover the fan, halogen headlights, stereo, etc.
Personally, I feel the water thermostat is essential, even in SoCA. I do not
believe using a sleeve helps cooling in any way, except that by running around
with the engine too cold most of the time, it takes longer to get hot and boil
over.
Randall
59 TR3A daily driver TS39781LO
On Monday, October 09, 2000 5:49 PM, Justin Paxton [SMTP:justin@bexel.com]
wrote:
>
> I purchased the Hayden puller fan, and would appreciate whatever tips you
> can give about its installation, electrical considerations, use of the
> thermostat on/off or hard line to a switch on the dash. I hear you need to
> drill holes in the radiator (tips -??), now I read you have to remove the
> fan and there are resulting harmonic considerations. What about the pulley
> and the extension (hardware changes?). I had the engine balanced with the
> fan and extension assembly. It would appear this would help vibration in
> general, making the removal less of a concern (yes - no?). Cooling on the
> TR3 seems to be a recurring theme as is the addition of the Hayden fan.
> Opinions on the success of this method to improve cooling are also welcome.
> How about removing the T-stat and inserting a sleeve. I hear in So Cal you
> really don't need one and it helps cooling as well.
> THX: Justin
> '59 TR3A TS40984 Parts All Over The House
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