Brad Kahler wrote:
> Hi Brian,
>
> > Although similar in shape, the frame won't easily interchange from a
> > '4A to TR-6 due primarily to the bracketry for the engine mountings
> > being radically different. There are also other minor differences in
> > clips for the brake plumbing, the trans mount (which can be
> > overcome by using the appropriate mounting bracket for the year of
> > the frame) and also the rear differential area, which is just a
> > cosmetic difference rather than mechanical/structural.
>
> Wouldn't you know it would be just enough to make it difficult!
>
> The bracketry differences don't worry me. The engine mounting stuff
> certainly does. I guess I'll just have to keep my eyes open for a decent
> rust free TR4A frame.
>
> Thanks for the feed back!
>
> Brad
Hi Brad,
I'm forwarding this to the list for the benefit of those who might be in
similar situations. If you are going from a TR-6 frame into a TR-4A, it's a
lot easier to do than going the other way.
The mounting holes for the TR-4A motor mounts were never deleted when the
TR-6 frame went into production, consequently locating the four cyl. engine
properly in the TR-6 frame is easier than trying to get the six into a '4A
frame . In order to utilize the factory mountings, you'll need to cut off
the 'C' shape that makes up the mount for the six cylinder and then drill a
2" access hole from in between the lower wishbone mounts behind the spring.
(This access hole is necessary to get the nut on the back of the TR-4A style
engine mounts - the area is open on the '4A, but boxed in on the '6.) You'll
also need to remove the three sided box area from in front of the spring
towers near the upper wishbone mounting in order to clear the bodywork on the
'4A. And finally, depending on what you choose to do for an engine fan
(electric or stock), you'll need to adapt the mounting holes on the '4A
crossmember to fit the '6 frame. (If you go with the stock 6 crossmember, it
will be very tight to the stock engine driven fan - it may or may not be
enough clearance, so be prepared to modify the '4A piece to fit the '6 bolt
holes.) Aside from the crossmember, it's all cutting and drilling with no
welding. If you look carefully, I bet you can drill the spring tower and
simply bolt the '4A crossmember in with nuts from the back side - but that's
just speculation - look it over carefully before making your decision.
Good luck!
Brian Schlorff
Power British
http://www.powerbritish.com/~britcars
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