Paul :
The dizzy bolt doesn't need to be very tight at all, basically just
enough to keep the dizzy from vibrating around.
If the adjustment wheel doesn't make a difference, take off the cap and
make sure the vacuum advance is actually connected to the point plate.
You should be able to see the plate move as you turn the wheel. It
might also be a good idea to remove the point plate and inspect the
centrifugal advance mechanism.
Otherwise, it sounds to me as though the gas you are buying just isn't
high enough octane to run the factory ignition timing. If higher octane
gas is not an option, you'll have to run the timing somewhat retarded.
On my TR3A (which has had the compression raised a bit too much), I find
that octane boosters/lead substitutes that contain MMT are very
effective in reducing ping, even at concentrations far below that
recommended by the mfgr. The effect seems to build up over a few tanks,
until I can use only about 1/2 ounce additive to 10 gallons of premium
gas. At that rate, the cost is minimal.
Randall
59 TR3A daily driver
Paul Mitchell wrote:
>
> List,
>
> I've recently replaced the condenser, points, and rotor on my 74 TR6 PI.
> When I did this, I set the static timing too, during which process I
> undid the distributor clamp bolt to move it slightly. I'm sure I got the
> timing right, but I now get a pinking, which I'm having trouble getting
> rid of. Retarding the timing with the adjustment wheel doesn't seem to
> make any difference at all.
>
> The engine now idles slightly faster than before (about 1000rpm as
> opposed to 850), and smoother, so that helps to convince me the timing
> is right, but I get pinking when accelerating from, say 30 to 50mph in
> 4th. Any suggestions?
>
> Supplementary question: how tight should the distributor bolt be?
|