Lot of discussion in re. lightened flywheels. Years ago I had mine
cut/refaced, reducing the weight by roughly 60%. I did the engineering,
considering that the original flywheels are of cast iron, and thus have
specific strengths/weaknesses. Simultaneously I had the pressure plate
and disk balanced. I coupled this flywheel/pressure combo to a balanced
crank and engine. The engine is basically stock.
The results are an extremely smooth engine, that revs right up to
redline without the slightest hesitation or rumble. Noticible
improvement in pickup. Also, no difficulty in low-end idle. Idles just
fine in the 600-800 rpm range.
Keep in mind that I used an original flywheel, and as such, I DON'T
over-rev. Cast iron is brittle, and does not have the tensile strength
of forged steel or aluminum, and thus can fly apart if over-revved
continuously! If you are going to race, get a specially manufactured
race-prepped flywheel.
Cheers
On Wed, 16 Aug 2000, Joe Merone wrote:
>
> >Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 00:04:21 -0400
> >From: "Musson, Carl" <musson@chekhov.arts.usf.edu>
> >Subject: RE: TR3 - lighten flywheel question
>
> >Quick response from Jim Wallace & Henry Frye -
> Thanks. >The consensus is that if the engine & drive
> train is >stock, then I would be asking for trouble to
> change >just one part of the equation. Tomorrow it
> gets put
> >back together - as is (well, it does have a new
> clutch >plate, etc.)
>
> >Thanks again.
> >Carl
>
> Henry Frye... Let's see now... There used to be a guy
> named Henry Frye who hung around these parts - yup.
> Pretty smart fella too when it came to cars. Haven't
> heard a word from him for a loooooong time.
>
> Wonder what ever happened to him?
>
>
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James A. Ruffner
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