The bushing can be replaced without cutting the knobs off the sides. First
liberally
sprinkle graphite into the column so that it penitrates past the rubber portion
of the
bushing. Use a little penetrating oil. Compress the existing knobs on the
bushing
using a "C" clamp, with appropriate little spacers, such that the knobs are
pushed
inside the column. You can now use a shaft to drive the bushing towards the
steering
wheel end of the column.
Do the reverse to put the new one in.
It takes a little work, but it does work, in that I replaced these bushings in
my
TR-3A, -4, and -6.
Cheers.
Jeff Nathanson wrote:
> Bud,
>
> I'm still in the process of replacing the bushings. And it's not easy
>at
> all! The
> largest problem I had was to remove the top bushing since in my '72
>TR6,
> someone put
> a metal roller bearing right beneath the horn slip ring. It was
>impossible
> to get out.
> So, I had to get an used steering column cowl. Then after trying to
>put
> the new bushings
> in by hand, I gave up and went to machine shop and had to use a
>press. I
> don't want to
> discourage you from trying it yourself. Maybe, you'll have have a much
> easier time with
> just the top bushing. However, talking to some LBC gurus, they tell me
> that the lower
> bushing in usually the culprit if your steering wheel rattles.
>
> Below is a copy of a note that Peter Zaborsky sent me last year. Hope
>it
> helps. If
> you want some more info, feel free to email me off the list.
>
> Jeff Nathanson
> '72 TR6
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ---------------------
> Last week I asked about any hints to make the job of replacing the bushings
> in my steering column easier. I completed the job this past weekend and
> found no major difficulties. In response to a couple of private requests I
> am posting the significant findings while the info is still fresh...
>
> 1. I followed the procedure in the Bentley manual and found it quite
> adequate to do the job. Only departures from the description is that I
> removed the tach AND the speedo to gain better access to the ignition bolts
> and I removed the driver's seat. No big deal to remove either of these
> instruments IMO and I got to clean out the back of the glass while I was at
> it. (Just had to take them apart while I had them out :-) As for the seat,
> it makes access waaay better, I highly recommend it.
>
> 2. I thought removing the ignition "shear" bolts might prove difficult if
> the bolt heads had been sheared off (they were). Quite the contrary, once
> the steering column was loosened, I was able to rotate the column in such a
> way that the ignition was almost upside down. I then used a drill and
> easy-out to extract the two sheared off bolts. (I did not want to make slots
> in the bolt heads or opposite ends with something like a cutting wheel on a
> dremel cause that would have scarred up the aluminum ignition housing -
> kinda hacky IMO). Using the easy out presented no problems (other than
> having to do it on my back).
>
> 3. New shear bolts were not going into my car!!! This has to be one of the
> stupidest security measures I have ever seen. I just bought a couple of SS
> hex head bolts to fit my ignition. M8-20, 3/4" long in my case, very late
> TR6. Others have said they used 5/16 UNF. I did have to file down the bolt
> heads so they would fit into the recesses in the ignition, initially the
> bolt head diameter was to large for the recess. No biggie here.
>
> 4. Another stupid device - the domed caps on the bolts clamping the column
> between the steering wheel and the ignition. Bit of a pain to get off.
> Definitely they were not replaced. I just left the bolts "bare".
>
> 5. Removing the old bushings seemed like it might be difficult. I acquired
> some drywall anchors based on previous posts hoping they would make this
> step of the job easier. Not needed! As it turns out, the pictures of the
> inner column I have seen up to now do NOT show the thick sleeve welded to
> the inner column which is used to enable the column locking feature. I had
> thought the inner column would just be a uniform steel rod. Instead I was
> able to use the inner column itself to drive out the lower bushing (after
> cutting off the two "ears"). By drive I mean slowly applying pressure - not
> pounding!. It came rather easily. Same technique for the upper one. New ones
> went in with no problems again using the inner column to drive in the upper
> one. I used a piece of plastic pipe of the right size (~1" OD) to drive in
> the lower bushing once the inner column had been put in position. I used
> silicone spray lubricant to make installation easier. Note: cars without
> locking ignition may indeed have a single diameter inner column in which
> case removal may be more difficult.
>
> 6. Cleaned up all the contacts in the steering column harness while it was
> apart.
>
> That's about it. All in all, a reasonably simple procedure. Results are very
> impressive. The wheel no longer has that loose sloppy feel when lateral
> force is applied. I don't know how long the new bushings will stay this
> solid but it is definitely worth it so far.
>
> Hope this helps some others out if you are planning on doing this in the
> future or if you were intimidated by the prospect of the task.
>
> Peter Zaborski
> 76 TR6 (CF58310 UO)
> Calgary AB Canada
>
> Director of Product Development
> Manufacturing Systems & Technologies, Inc.
> Web site: www.msystech.com
> Telephone: 856-874-1884
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