The previous issue of Popular Classics magazine deals with exactly this.
The Staff TR6 has rusted floors, and the staff was told by some TR
restorers to cut out the floor to within an inch of the edges, and then
use an angle grinder to clear out the rest. I just did this myself this
week, and although it's a lot of work, you'll see why this is good
advice once you get the floor out. The floor is welded in spots you
can't even see.
I'm still going to be using the angle grinder for the rest of the
weekend.
AndyJS1@aol.com wrote:
>
> Hello Listers,
>
> This is my first entry to the list and would appreciate any information as I
> progress through the restoration of our TR 6, which I have just started. The
> rust discovered as the car is dismantled is not too bad (nothing compared to
> what I found when I did our Austin Healey some years ago). It does look like
> the floor on the driver's side will have to be changed as there is a 4"
> diameter hole up front. The passenger side has a few pin holes that I think
> I can repair properly. It does not look as though spot welds are used on the
> TR6. It looks like edge and butt welds with gas. How do you get this floor
> out? It looks somewhat challenging as there is a vertical flange that goes
> down alongside the rocker panel where it is edge welded to the panel.
>
> Any help will be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Andy Schwarz
> Renton, WA
> 1963 Austin Healey BJ7
> 1970 TR6
--
George Richardson
Wyvern - '57 Triumph TR3, TS15559LT -
http://www.merlingroupinc.com/tr3.htm
Griffin - '71 Triumph Stag - undergoing restoration
Pikachu - '75 Triumph TR6 - undergoing repair
Kitty - '83 Jaguar XJ6 Vanden Plas - Daily Driver
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