Hi Tim
A trick I use to hold threads whilst working a stuborn nut is to take
another nut as you suggest then cut a slot in it, the size you are working
on are small so use a junior hacksaw for the slot, then when you use the
vice grips, the nut will conform to the thread and stop it rotating easier
than pulling down will then when you have the original nut moving you can
push a screwdriver into the slot in the cut nut and open it slightly to
enable you to remove it. No idea on the reinstalation, sorry!
Good luck.
Graham.
2500 PI MKII
Sprinted Dolomite
2000 MKI
Toledo
1300 Front Wheel Drive
http://members.tripod.co.uk/TriumphIW/index.html
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Gaines <mtgaines@cs1.presby.edu>
To: <TRIUMPHS@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 10:01 PM
Subject: crash pad problems
>
> I need advice on a couple of problems with my crash pad. I made a
> series of mistakes that have got me thoroughly depressed and just
> about defeated. I wanted to replace the crash pad rather than just
> cover it with a plastic overlay. But, without realizing it, I
> ordered the overlay. Apparently there is no pad replacement. Well,
> I didn't catch my mistake until I had already removed the old pad
> completely. When I discovered that there was no pad replacement in
> the catalogs, I decided to just use the overlay; it seemed to fit
> nicely. This morning I tried to reinstall the whole crash pad with
> the overlay glued on. What a bear of a job! I couldn't get the pad
> to go in far enough toward the glass or to lay flat enough on the
> mounting surface. Finally, I used a big C clamp to to pull the pad
> down far enough to start a nut on one stud bolt that projects down
> from the metal pad frame through a slot in the mounting surface.
> After that I was able to get all 6 nuts started, but I still couldn't
> get the pad pushed in far enough to get the vent slots to align
> properly. I figured that if I tightened the pad down more, I could
> then try to force the whole thing back further. In doing that I
> tightened 2 of the nuts too far and the studs started turning with
> the nuts. Now the pad is down tight on the mounting surface and
> cannot be budged. What's even worse is that I can't slacken the
> 2 nuts because the studs just rotate with them. I think what I need
> to do is get the damn thing off and then reinsert it at a steeper
> angle to get it deep enough and THEN try to flatten it out. But,
> how do I get these nuts off? There is no way to get to the tops of
> the studs without cutting through the pad down to its metal frame, so
> how do I hold the studs while I turn the nuts? The only thing I can
> think of trying is to thread another nut on each stud (there is about
> 1/4 inch below the first nut), grab the new nut with a vise-grip and
> pull down hard while I use a wrench on the upper nut. If that
> doesn't work I'm at a loss. Honestly, I don't think I could get my
> Dremel tool in the right position to do any cutting under there.
>
> So my questions to you are:
>
> 1) Is there another way to try to get the nuts off?
>
> 2) Assuming I do get the nuts off, what is the best way to get the pad
> back in place?
>
> I would REALLY appreciate any and all advice. But PLEASE don't tell me
> that I shouldn't have taken the pad off in the first place! Jeez I
> wish I could get a "do-over" on the whole thing!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim Gaines
> Clinton, SC
> 1980 Spitfire
> 1974 TR6
>
>
|