Good point. Muriatic Acid will not be neutralized by the lacquer thinner. It
does however completely neutralized with water. I followed a simple regimen,
used the MA, flushed with lots of water, filled with water and let sit in
the sun. When the water was as hot as it was going to get, I dumped it,
quickly air pressure dried and added a slosh of Marvel Mystery Oil too hold
it until I could install it. Worked extremely well. The inside of the tank
took on a slight warm look from unimportant surface oxidation (not enough to
call rust). This was 2 years ago.
Bob Kramer
TR4,TR4A, TR6, 2.5 Saloon
rgk@flash.net
----- Original Message -----
From: William Hooper <rotoflex@hotmail.com>
To: <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2000 1:48 PM
Subject: re: Cleaning Fuel Tank
>
> Cleaning the interior of the tank with muriatic acid may have contributed
to
> the returning rust. You must completely neutralize muriatic acid, or it
> will begin a lifetime project of rusting away whatever steel it has
touched.
>
> I once painted a room containing a theater organ blower; the cement
surfaces
> had to first be scrubbed with muriatic acid. I scrupulously avoided
getting
> the muriatic acid on metal parts such as conduit, disconnects, etc. Even
> after washing these metal surfaces with soap & water, enough of the
muriatic
> acid *from the fumes* remained to begin the rusting process through enamel
> paint, galvanized coatings, etc.
>
>
>
> Original message follows:
> ------------------------------------------
>
> I recently redid my fuel tank for my 1960 TR-3A. For the inside, I
> blocked off the openings and poured in several rinses of muriatic acid
(wear
> proper safety protection). After that, I followed up immediately with
> several rinses with lacquer thinner. If you rinse with water, you get
> immediate rust. After that, I poured in some tank slushing compound that I
> got from MOSS.
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
>
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