Here is all the advise I have gotten. You all are great. Let me know more
about Eastwood. Looks like there are several options, sandblasting,
steaming and coating. I will be happy to get this repair over with for
sure. Figures it had to happen this week. Thanks for the welcome back to
the list. Things have been a little crazy for the past year, going back to
the single life, but I still have my triumph. I'll keep you all posted and
should be here.
Jane
'67 GT6
As long as it doesn't leak fix the old tank. I took my tank from the TR8
which was exhibiting the same symptoms (but to a worse extent, I'll wager)
to my local radiator shop and for about $100 he boiled it out and sealed
the inside. I can't comment on how it will work as I have only just put
gas in it for the first time last weekend. But it doesn't leak and I have
every confidence that it will be fine.
Dave
P.S. Welcome back to the list.
Eastwood sells a $35 kit for cleaning and sealing a gas tank. Drop me a
line
if
you're interested in more details.
Mike
Renton, WA
'68 Spitfire + '73 GT6 = Spitfire 6 project
http://www.gas-tank.com/
Jane, take a look at this site. Hope it helps.
Tom Travers
Jane--
You seem to have gotten the range of advice available (apart from where
to find a new tank cheap--don't think anyone knows that <g>).
But, I will suggest this before you send out the tank for big money
repairs. Since you will have to remove the tank, anyway, I would try
draining and removing the tank (not a difficult process), then lightly
rapping all around with a screwdriver handle. Areas which have become
really thin from rusting will sound tinnier than otherwise. If there is
no leakage at the seams, no rust-throughs, it may be that there is light
even rusting--which would produce a lot of scale--but there may not be
serious structural damage.
Assuming the tank is otherwise sound, a local radiator shop can boil it
out and take care of virtually all of the scale and sediment, probably
for around $20-25. If, after it's boiled out, some additional damage is
detected, you can probably get most of that money back on the more
expensive tank repair.
The other thing you might consider, especially if the repair job is in
the $250 dollar range is to have a look at fuel cells. The general
street class variety (polypropylene outside, rubber bladder inside, no
foam) will have almost the same capacity as the original. Admittedly,
it's not stock, and there may be additional concerns about mounting
brackets and getting the connections from fuel fill to cell taken care
of, but you never have to worry about rust again.
Cheers, Jane. Nice to see you back again.
--
Michael D. Porter
Roswell, NM
[mailto: mporter@zianet.com]
`70 GT6+ (being refurbished, slowly)
`71 GT6 Mk. III (organ donor)
`72 GT6 Mk. III (daily driver)
`64 TR4 (awaiting intensive care)
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