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Re: GT6 gearbox

To: "David A. Templeton" <davidt@opentext.com>
Subject: Re: GT6 gearbox
From: "Graham Stretch" <technical@iwnet.screaming.net>
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 16:09:36 +0100charset="iso-8859-1"
Cc: "List Triumph" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <013a01bfbf3a$2bc96310$dc0215ac@wl.opentext.com>
Hi David
Yes you do have to jack quite a long way, make sure the flange on the
propshaft is tilted the right way and you will reduce the height needed
quite considerably.
Even new engine oil that has been in there a few days will come out like
syrup, the gearbox seal is easy enough if you have one, earlier cars from
the range had a box with a scroll type oil seal which relied on the thrower
ring working well, not having too much oil in the box and a reasonably tight
clearance between the shaft and the front extension. If this is not working
and all the parameters were obeyed especially the oil not being over filled
then you need a new bell housing with the lip type seal  (and input shaft?
which may not match the laygear cluster teeth (BTDT)) If you have the lip
type seal it is much like any other seal to remove and refit.
Whilst you have the box out remove the rear oil seal and the rear engine oil
seal and replace these as well, if you can try to remove the rear engine
seal without removing the alloy casting as this could damage the sump gasket
and then you would have to change that as well. when you fit the new seals
the rear engine in particular doesn't have a flange to set the depth at
which it is installed so you can move it in further or not so far depending
on the previous installation to have the lip contact an unworn portion of
the shaft.

Graham.
2500PI MKII
Sprinted Dolomite
2000 MKI
1300 Toledo
1300 front wheel drive
http://members.tripod.co.uk/TriumphIW/index.html

----- Original Message -----
From: David A. Templeton <davidt@opentext.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2000 2:25 PM
Subject: GT6 gearbox


>
> Good morning Listers
>
> Okay, I have taken the interior out and undone all of the bolts from the
> bell housing and supported the engine.  The problem is, how do I get the
> gearbox clear of the prop-shaft to pull it out?  The workshop manual
states
> I should lift the engine with the jack and wood block so the until the
rear
> flange  clears the shaft.  It would seem I have to put a fair amount of
lift
> on the sump to achieve this, is this right??
>
> My second issue is when I cracked the seal between the bell housing and
the
> engine oil came out the bottom,  Since I am not loosing oil in the engine
>  yes big surprise ), and the oil in the engine is new and fresh I suspect
> that the oil is from the gearbox itself because it looked very dark and
old,
> which would explain a lot.  No 2nd gear, clutch not fully disengaging from
> oil contamination etc.  How hard is it to replace the oil seal in the
> gearbox?
>
> As always thanks in advance
>
>         David A. Templeton
>         Open Text Corp.
>         Waterloo, ON
>         Canada
>         WebSite: http://trandmustang.homestead.com
>
>         '74 Triumph SpitSix
>         '66 Ford Mustang (Wife's)
>         '59 Triumph TR3a (Project)
>         '99 GMC Safari
>         '95 GMC K2500 Sierra
>
>
>
>
>


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