Hi Michael
'The TR' had been to New Mexico a few times in the '70's Albquerq., Sante
Fe, Taos, Grants, Galluip and Zuni, but not Roswell.
One old trick with a dead cell was to screw in two screws across the dead
cell, the two screws tied together with wire- sometimes if the other cells
were still fairly decent- one could get enough voltage (10.5v) to at least
get the car started- more important in non-clutch cars-or those TR's that
had bad volt regs and the generator wasn't 'on line'- as was often the case
in my college years!
Thanks for the post!
Sherman
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael D. Porter [mailto:mporter@zianet.com]
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2000 1:17 AM
To: Taffel, Sherman
Cc: 'triumphs@autox.team.net'
Subject: Re: Sudden Battery Death Syndrome
"Taffel, Sherman" wrote:
>
> Today, Started, Running fine, battery charging, and charging normally
(14V),
> Now you should know the real deal- a cell has gone bad- and its only a
> matter of 'seconds'- and she'll be ''The Dead Diehard".
For what it's worth (not applicable to DieHards or other sealed
batteries), but I found an easy test for dead cells while working in a
shop about twenty years ago. Simply put the battery on a charger and put
the voltmeter leads directly into the electrolyte between cells. If all
are normal, they should read 2.1-2.2 volts. If one cell reads 1.8 or
under while charging, it's almost assured that the cell is dead or
dying. Check the battery about twenty or thirty minutes later, and if
the low cell reading hasn't improved, it's time for another battery.
Cheers.
--
Michael D. Porter
Roswell, NM
[mailto: mporter@zianet.com]
`70 GT6+ (being refurbished, slowly)
`71 GT6 Mk. III (organ donor)
`72 GT6 Mk. III (daily driver)
`64 TR4 (awaiting intensive care)
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