Can't recall your cars symptoms from previous posts but you may have a
vacuum leak in your brake booster or a vacuum leak somewhere else. Take
the vacuum line off the brake booster and plug it or pinch it off
securely. If the idle improves, try moving and applying the brakes to
see if it dies. Only do this in your driveway or somewhere you won't
need the added stopping power that the brake booster provides. If it
runs at idle and when applying the brakes (with the line pinched off)
then you may have found the problem. If not then start eliminating other
vacuum lines by the same method. How do your plugs look? Should be
light brown. That's a great way to find out if it's a mixture problem
in either the front or back carb or both. I like to look at #2 and #5
since they are the "middle" plug for the front and rear carbs
respectively on a TR6.
Bud Rolofson
Crazeecooter@aol.com wrote:
>
> Okay All...
>
> I thought I had my problem (car not idling constant at stand still and dying
>at traffic lights) solved by putting oil in the dashpots. (remember the choke
>cable was just replaced and carbs set) Now the problem is that if I put the
>choke all the way in at idle, the car dies. I have to keep it out a tad just
>to keep it going. But this is not a constant problem mind you...two days ago
>I had the choke all the way in and was whistling dixie everyplace I
>went...traffic lights and all. What gives???? The oil level in the dashpot
>is still good...so I am at a loss. The carbs were rebuilt before I did the
>frame off...but were stored in a freezing cold storage building during the
>winter. Could this be my problem?? Could the rubber diaphrams gotten
>brittle? I have a feeling though if those were out the car would be running
>ALOT worse...but maybe I am wrong.
>
> Jonathan.
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