David:
I presume you're talking about a swing spring reinstallation? If so, reseating
the diff studs is the hardest part of this job. Sure, use the top locking nut
to turn it in. You'll just need to wrestle around with the spring cap until you
can be sure the studs are threading in correctly. If you're really stuck, you
can try taking an appropriate bolt, file down the end a bit, and use it as a
starter to line up the spring cap -- then put in the stud. I never had much
success w/that approach, however. Mostly it's just patience that works. (Of
course, you have to reinstall the spring while it's unloaded.)
As per your starting problem, there's no way it should take 2-3 minutes to
start. Sounds like a compromised ignition system, and/or a choke problem. Both
my cars turn over in 5-10 seconds, most always.
--
Martin Secrest
72 TR6
73 GT6
"David A.Templeton" wrote:
> Good evening all,
>
> I have taken out the tired rear spring out of the spit and almost ready to
> put the replacement in ( looks really nice blasted and painted :-) ). One
> small concern I have is about the studs on top of the diff. How do I seat
> them to make sure they are in the diff correctly?
>
> I used the double nut method to get them off, does this also work to put
> them back on, this time tightening down on the top nut?
>
> Also, I have a question about Angelo's question about restoring the leather
> seats in his car. Could you not use saddle soap and mink oil? I mean I
> have used this combination on my boots and lots of people use it on saddles.
> Just a question, I really don't want to start a debate on this.
>
> I just started the spit after it sitting idle for 36 hours and it seems to
> take 2-3 minutes of cranking before she will start. Is this okay for a 6
> cyl ( GT6 or TR6 people? ). Or is there something I need/could check?
>
> Thanks and regards
>
> David A. Templeton
> mailto::davidt@opentext.com
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