Erkan :
The plumber's (propane) torch is a fine idea, although it's probably best to
have a fire extinguisher on hand also. Heat the trans case near the plug
until it's too hot to touch (or the oil inside starts smoking), then try
again to turn the plug. I'd probably use a pipe wrench (assuming that's not
what you call a monkey wrench). The nice thing about a pipe wrench is that
the harder you turn, the tighter it grips.
If you get your torch at Sears, you can also pick up a 1/2" drive, 7/16" 8
point socket to use on the plugs in the future. The 8-point will grip much
better than the 12-point I'm guessing you are using now. Don't forget some
new plugs (they are common pipe plugs, ISTR the size is 1/4" NPT). I like
to use the white, Teflon-based pipe dope, although Teflon tape will work
well also.
Randall
Erkan Hassan wrote :
>
> Yesterday I thought I would change the gear box oil in the 62 TR3B
> before dinner. Once everything was set up, I huffed and I puffed and
> the drain plug was adequately siezed in place. The socket wrench then
> proceeded to slip around the plug and start to round it off.
>
> I turned my attention to the fill plug, figuring that if I get the
> drain plug out, it won't do me any good if I cannot get the fill plug
> out too. Low and behold, that plug was frozen too. And the DPO had
> already rounded that plug so the sockets would not grab at all.
>
> Tonight, being wiser, I attacked with a can of liquid plumber, vise
> grips, a really big monkey wrench and a big nut cruncher plyers.
>
> Again I was turned away without satisfaction. Both plugs are in
> position. And now the drain plug is pretty beat up too.
>
> Is there any sage advice as to what I should do at this point?
>
> I fear there is 38 year old gear oil in there and I would really like
> to change it.
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