Graham;
There are the rubber lines from the calipers and wheel cylinders to the
metal brake lines that are the ones that should be replaced. You probably
still have the originals on your car, and as they get old, they will swell
under braking pressure. I would bet that if these were replaced, it would
go a long way toward fixing your problem. I would try this first, because
they should be changed if they are original- if only for safety reasons.
Then if you still exhibit some of the symptoms, you can look at the brake
booster. This all assumes that the bleeding job did not leave air bubbles
in the system. I do not have experwience with DOT 5 and so cannot comment
directly on bleeding brakes with Dot 5 in the system.
Jeff Johnson
t 09:20 AM 4/19/00, G Spencer wrote:
>OK,
> Here's the scenario '70 TR6 with 80K on the clock. I bought this
> car as a
>parts car, but it's too nice!! I drove her all summer last year while
>working on my '73, but now I have a problem. I have to press the brake
>pedal to the floor to stop the car (I'm talking hard here), and even then
>the car only stops slowly. I have rebuilt the MC (it didn't look very bad,
>no pitting, etc.) flushed the fluid (or was that fluif) replaced with DOT
>5. Replaced the drum pads and actuators (whatever the proper term is, the
>hydraulic thingies) ,put new pads on the front, and blead the system, same
>problem, nothing has changed. Very hard SLOW braking. My thoughts are that
>the brake lines are all toast, and I need to replace all the lines. So, my
>questions are, replace lines? replace MC? and just what is the booster
>supposed to do (I thought it was to "power" the brake pedal) could this be a
>problem?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Graham Spencer
>
>70 TR6
>73 TR6
>
>BTW the PDWA was leaking as well, a broken kingpin from my skateboard of 15
>some years ago fixed it right up. Just goes to show that even broken bolts
>are worth saving sometimes (I keep trying to tell my wife that<grin>)
>
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