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TR6 suspension rebuilding etc.

To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: TR6 suspension rebuilding etc.
From: "djc.tr6" <djc.tr6@gateway.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 08:18:01 -0700charset="iso-8859-1"
My suspension rebuilding experiences may be of some use to those
contemplating the process.
    The rear swingarm bushing replacement can be a difficult task as the
rubber bushings are either stuck in the arms or were glued in. Cutting the
"flange" off one side of the bushing, and using an arbor press, hydraulic
jack or large vice will make removal easier. You must use an object smaller
than the outer diameter of the bushing to push it out, and a hollow object
on the other end to receive the bushing as it comes out. I used a large
socket to push the bushing, and a pipe coupling to receive it. I installed
poly bushings, which were two piece and simple to insert. The important
point that I was not aware of then, and am loathe to rectify now, is that
the center steel sleeve must turn in the new poly bushing, unlike the rubber
one in which the rubber is bonded to the sleeve, and the rubber flexes as
the swingarm moves. I did not verify that the steel sleeve was slightly
longer than the poly bushing. What I believe to be the case is, the sleeve
was a little short, and the frame pivots have effectively clamped against
the poly bushing flanges, and my rear suspension now is quite stiff and
makes groaning noises.
If, when assembling, I had checked, I could have reduced the flange
thickness just a little, and the frame brackets would have clamped against
the ends of the steel sleeves, allowing smooth movement.
     The front suspension was redone with stainless and nylon rather than
the poly. It is less trouble than the rear as the bushings are loose pieces.
The same check must be made here to ensure the sleeve turns within the
bushing by being clamped between the frame bracket ears. In my case, a
slight amount of material was removed from the suspension arm bushing
mounting hole faces to permit smooth movement without sideplay.
    The most difficult part is removing/replacing the springs, and should be
done with a spring compressor.
Additionally, front shimmy was not totally due to front suspension looseness
as advised, but rather by slightly bent wheels and hub. A litany of off car
balance, on car balance (not easily found in some areas), hub replacement,
wheel straightening, and tire replacement did not totally eliminate the 60
mph shimmy. Panasport wheels for Christmas was the answer.
No front steering play requires attention at speed, no one finger steering!
Rear camber problem is mostly asthetic, as JK Jackson (I think)
recommends -1 degree rear camber for handling. I just couldn't deal with the
look, and ordered the wrong thickness spacer from Goodparts. Careful sawing
reduced it's thickness, and now I sit with upright wheels(without me
anyway).
Dennis Costello
73 TR6
CF8659U



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