Jerry
Having done a complete rebuild -- I can confirm that the "outside" nut does
nothing other than hold the flange to the tapered shaft - and given how
hard it is to get them apart, it probably could be done up finger
tight! (but please don't do so - Murphy lurks everywhere). The two large
nuts at the rear of the hub set the end float. If it helps, I have penned
a description of the process, and can send you a copy of the info - or you
can download it via the excellent Triumph site hosted by Dan Buettner
http://thelittlemacshop.com/trsite/download.html. It should give you
enough info to carry out the rebuild, and enough excuses to greatly extend
the range of tools in your workshop!
Tony Gordon
72 TR6
>Hi everybody. Question about rear IRS hubs. I'm reassembling a semi
>basket case car that has had the rear hubs mucked with a bit. On right
>side, the large center nut on the outer side of the stub shaft has been
>loosened. The manual calls this nut the hub retaining nut. That's the
>nut you'd see as you look at the brake drum with the wheel off. In this
>case, it's a castle nut with provision for a cotter key instead of a
>nylock nut. Since the stub shaft is a taper key, would disturbing the
>outer nut impact the end float?? It doesn't appear that it has, but
>since at least 2 this. is needed, it's hard to tell without a dial
>(which I don't own). On the right side, the crush nut and lock nut with
>tab has been beat upon, and the whole nut assembly is loose.
>Fortunately, I have another used hub, and only need to install a new
>universal to repair this. Any tips in installing same would be helpful.
>Jerry Oliver, Olympia, WA. 68 TR250, 66TR4A (2), 62 TR4, 61 MGA, 58
>Jaguar OTS.
____________________________________________________________________________
Anthony Gordon Technology Education Consultant
Saginaw Public Schools tel: 1-517-797-4855
ISDC, 1505 Ottawa Blvd fax: 1-517-797-4778
Saginaw, MI 48602, USA email: tgordon@saginaw-city.k12.mi.us
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