You Writ:
> 1) Reinstall original springs? How does one determine if there is still
> sufficient "spring" to the spring?
The orginal springs are wimpy... dump them!
> 2) Replace with new original equipment springs?
Good luck finding them.
> 3) Replace with uprated springs?
DEFINITELY.
I'm very partial to the Moss 670-138 670-148 "competition" springs. I've
driven something like 15k miles or more since I upgraded - I love them. The
car is lowered a bit, but it's not "in the weeds".
The other Road/Rallye upgrade springs are just as stiff, but start out
taller - so your car will run very high with them... IMHO.
> Additionally, shocks have to be replaced. My rear levers are toast as are
> the front tubes.
> 4) Convert rear to tube shocks
NO. It's not worth it unless you have money to burn. If you do have money
to burn, get your shoX rebuilt by Apple - get the HD option and with the
leftover $200 or so, consider sponsoring my "race efforts".
I'm just kidding on the sponsorship thing.
> 5) Replace original levers with uprated levers
YES.
> 6) Have original levers revalved? Anyone up here in the Great White North
> have shocks revalved? Is this a viable option?
There's Apple Hydraulics in the US, there's also another list member in the
WI area somewhere that rebuilds the also. I'm a fan of rebuilding.
> I admit I am nervous about installing uprated springs and shocks because of
> the effect on the rear alignment although it does somewhat appeal to me
> (lower stance). I would be remiss not to consider options available. Your
> thoughts and opinions are valued.
Well, you're changing the bushings etc anyway, right? So you need to get a
competent thrust alignment followed by a front end alignment, right? If so,
let your fears fall by the wayside.
Believe me - you'll be amazed at the difference in handling by upgrading
the springs and shoX...
If you want more info, feel free to drop me a line.
rml
TR6's
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