In my experience, the taper pin always breaks (yes that right, it always
breaks) at a point outside the surface of the crosshaft, leaving some of it
to hold the fork loosely in place.
Bob Kramer
TR6, TR4A, 2.5 PI Saloon
rgk@flash.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Ferguson, Michael <FergusonML@aetna.com>
To: 'Bob Labuz' <yellowtr@borg.com>; <john.j.reed@gm.com>
Cc: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2000 4:28 PM
Subject: RE: Clutch problems
>
> Just a thought, but if the taper pin is broken, wouldn't it be possible to
> disconnect the slave cylinder linkage from the gearbox cross shaft arm and
> then rotate the cross shaft 360 degrees by hand? Not sure if this is
> necessarily the case, but if it'd work, it would sure beat pulling the
> gearbox to find a good taper pin.
>
> Or...what if you removed the locking bolt and grease zerk from the end of
> the cross shaft (the end opposite the slave cylinder), disconnected the
> slave and then tried to pull out the shaft? If the taper pin is broken,
> wouldn't you be able to do this?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Labuz [mailto:yellowtr@borg.com]
> Sent: Monday, March 06, 2000 5:05 PM
> To: john.j.reed@gm.com
> Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Clutch problems
>
>
>
> John,
>
> I am pretty sure a TR3 and TR4 trans are the same, less the 1st syncro.
So..
> can I
> suggest you check the TAPER PIN which secures the clutch operating fork to
> the
> Clutch operating shaft. If this pin is broken ( which is a common problem
if
> installed incorrectly) this could explain the symptoms you describe.
> Unfortunately
> you will have to remove the transmission to check. Good luck.
> Bob Labuz
> 1958 TR3A
> 1974 T140V
>
> john.j.reed@gm.com wrote:
>
> > I have recently replaced the clutch in my TR4 and also the clutch slave
> cylinder
> > hose. The clutch operation feels like there is still air in the
hydraulic
> > system. The clutch engages as soon as the pedal comes off the full
stroke
> > position. I bled it again Saturday and while it still engages sooner
than
> I
> > like, it was driveable. I went out to dinner and when I came back to
the
> car
> > two hours later, fully depressing the pedal would not release the clutch
> enough
> > to easily go into gear. I pumped the clutch several times and it was
back
> to
> > pre-dinner operation. The operating rod is adjusted per the shop
manual.
> I
> > have bled the system using the one-man kit I have which consists of a
> plastic
> > container with lid and hose which connects to the bleeder. I have also
> had my
> > wife pump the pedal while I watch the fluid and close the bleeder before
> she
> > releases the pedal. The slave cylinder is mounted with the bleeder
above
> the
> > hose. I have not found any leaks. What should I do now?
> >
> > Thanks
> > John Reed
>
>
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