Message text written by Tony Gordon
>About a year ago, my water pump impellor broke and in doing so, damaged
the
machined surface of the water pump housing. My epoxy repair started to
fail a while back (temp was creeping up once more), so I replaced the whole
housing last week. The factory and Haynes manuals do not tell the whole
story, so anyone interested, let me know and I email you a complete "how
to" note that might make it an easier task for you!
Also, I've noticed that the temp gauge reads higher when I put the
headlights on. I think I know that indicates a compensator problem: anyone
got any idea on how to tackle that one.
Tony Gordon
<
Tony,
The housing is held on with three bolts that attach it to the head. This
housing provides both connections to the radiator so both hoses must be
removed. And there is a pipe connection to the backside of the housing
which is the return line for the heater and the manifold preheat. This
connection is the most troublesome as it is an adapter fitting and a
compression fitting. It is important to hold the adapter (the bit that
screws into the housing) stationary whilst unscrewing the compression
fitting.
Oh, and unplug the temperature sending unit.
Once all the hoses and pipes are off you can undo the three bolts securing
the housing to the head and voila! you're done.
Assembly is the reverse of the above.
As for the temperature gauge reading high when the lights are on, check for
the ground on the speedometer housing. The voltage stabilizer is mounted
on the speedometer and is grounded to the mounting screw. If the ground
wire (black) is not attached to the speedometer housing the bulb current
must find some other path which may cause a voltage drop which will result
in the "stabilized" voltage being higher than it should be.
Good luck.
Dave Massey
57 TR3
71 TR6
80 TR8
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