In a message dated 01-Mar-00 02:47:14 Eastern Standard Time,
wdaehler@execpc.com writes:
> EXHAUST SYSTEM: Could it be anymore difficult? Right where the tail
> end of the header pipe meets the pipe of the muffler there is a
> transmission mounting bracket set up cleverly designed with eight bolts
> and nuts of three different sizes and lengths and a dozen little pieces
> of sheetmetal. Add to this obstacle course, the bracket which is
> supposed to squeeze the pipes together and hold them in location. My
> question to the list is: has anyone had trouble with the front of the
> muffler hitting the frame? I'm so close that I think it will rattle
> right under my seat. One more inch of length on the front pipe of the
> muffler would sure help it clear the frame entirely. The back of the
> muffler sure is close to the differential, but maybe thats because the
> body is off and the frame is on blocks.
Will, sounds as if someone tinkered with it. I installed a SS repro from TRF
about a year and 1/2 ago. It was identical in all aspects to the original.
There is a simple clip which goes around the pipe and attaches to the bracket
on the transmission with one screw, a washer and a nut. It is a bear to get
up in there and tighten them together. But it can be done. The original
parts manual shows it very clearly as does the instruction sheet from TRF.
> Second question: Is that clamp that joins the muffler end pipe to the
> front pipe of the resonator supposed to hang from the frame? Or does it
> just join them together?
Just joins them together. BTW this is right under the differential.
> My frame has a little angle bracket right in
> the area, (maybe for the gas line), but the Moss supplied exhaust system
> bracket has no mounting hole. There just seems to be too much weight in
> this section without any support. The next support is way at the end of
> the resonator. While the assembly manual shows no support at the joint
> of the muffler to resonator, it could be wrong.
It is correct. The other two brackets (trans and rear) hold the whole thing
very well.
> The manual is wrong
> certainly on the location of the exhaust system, showing it above the
> frame. I found it works better under the frame, and through the middle
> of it at the grand inersection where the transmission crossmember and
> all the bolts are.
Correct. Exhaust system goes through the frame. There are two holes in the
frame crossmember. The one on the passenger's side is larger and the pipe
goes through it. When finished -- the whole system is very well done. Very
tight and no banging around.
>
>
> ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
> I've been getting ready to fire off the engine for the first time. I've
> made a temporary spot (wood shelf) for the battery and solenoid, and
> have visions of adding a small gas can and a bracket to hold the oil
> pressure gage still. My solenoid has the little push button. Positive
> ground is my mantra, this year. I'm going to run a line from the always
> hot spade connector on the solenoid to the spade connector marked
> negative on the coil.
NO. There are three connectors on the solinoid. One connector (the rear one
on my solinoid) goes to the starter motor via a heavy brown wire. It
completes the circuit through the motor to ground. The front top connector
has three wires on it. One of them is a heavy brown wire that goes directly
to the negative terminal on the battery. (This is for a Pos gnd car). The
second wire goes to the ammenter and the third goes to the horns fuse. Both
are brown. The bottom connector of the three goes to the ignition switch via
a white/red wire.
> I have a short little white jumper wire from the
> coil to the distributor. I'm not too sure about this, but I thought
> that the spade connector should go from the + of the coil to the
> distributor. This just leaves two spade terminals to use up on the top
> of the coil. I'm guessing that the neg terminal remains unused, and
> perhaps the + gets grounded. Not sure. What do you think?
Whoa. The coil has two connectors (+ and -). Each connector has two female
connection points. One point on each will be empty when you are finished.
The wire (white/black) from the distributor (points) comes from ground
through the distributor and is connected to the plus connector on the coil.
(that's why it is plus - since the car is POS gnd. and it connects the coil
through the points to gnd.) The minus connector is routed from the coil to
the ignition switch via a white wire. If you hook it backwards the spark
will jump backwards across the spark plugs. (See British Car magazine
JUN-JUL '97, p.44, for an explanation)
> BATTERY GROUNDING Final question for tonight. When the body is back on
> and the battery is sitting on the shelf, does the positive battery cable
> get screwed into the vertical face of the fire wall? I have a big hole
> there, and it seems logical, and there is nothing else nearby.
Right. The hole is to the left (driver's side) of the battery box. My gnd
wire is a braided wire with a metal sheath on the end and is connected by a
large bolt and a flat washer to the firewall. Cheers.
Art Kelly '64 TR4 CT33118L (original owner/factory pickup)
VTR TR4 vehicle consultant
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