Warren :
Take a hacksaw blade, insert it through the center of the outer shell,
and carefully cut through the outer shell. Try to keep the blade
parallel to the shell, so you don't cut into the steering arm, although
a small notch won't hurt anything. Once you've cut most of the way
through the shell, you should be able to drive the shell out with a
punch and BFH.
A new silentbloc has a washer on top that keeps the center pin from
being pulled through the shell, even if the rubber doesn't. It's plenty
strong enough for service, but seems to usually break first when you
start trying to pry the silentbloc pin out of the idler/pitman arm. My
guess is your old silentbloc had the washer at one time, but a DPO
snapped it off trying to disassemble things.
Randall
59 TR3A daily driver
Lakewood, CA
"Allen, Warren" wrote:
>
> Help!
>
> I'm working on my front end, and have removed the silentbloc holding the
> steering drop arm to the steering rod. Or, to be more specific, I've
> removed the center bolt and the rubber bush. But I can't remove the metal
> cylinder that used to form the outside part of the old silentbloc from the
> hole in the steering rod. I've tried making a puller with a large socket, a
> long bolt, a couple of nuts, and several appropriately-sized washers, but
> all I've done is bend the washers. Is this supposed to be hard to get out?
> Any ideas about what to do? While on the subject, how does the silentbloc
> work? It's a cylinder without a cap, so what keeps it from being pulled
> through the hole in the steering arm? Thanks for all your help.
>
> Warren Allen
> TS55177L
> Winston-Salem, NC
>
> If a monkey explodes, you get rhesus pieces
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