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Re: Torque wrench woes

To: Philip Haldeman <haldeman@accessone.com>
Subject: Re: Torque wrench woes
From: Malcolm Walker <walker05@camosun.bc.ca>
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 18:29:17 -0800 (PST)
Cc: The Usual Suspects <triumphs@autox.team.net>
On Mon, 14 Feb 2000, Philip Haldeman wrote:

> The wrench was definitely set correctly.  It was a fairly cheap wrench, I'll
> admit ($30), made in Korea and all that.  The ft/lb setting was located in
> the handle.  It worked fine on a couple of "practice" bolts.  I got the idea
> that it might be the angle when I reefed on it.  I see that some people

My brother bought a similar wrench and it broke when anything above 400
in/lb (quick, what's 400/12?) was attempted.  The only markings were the
sticker that said "Q.C. OK", which might mean the Quality Control OK'd it,
or maybe it means "Quickly Covered Our Kludges".  Not a very good tool.

However I must admit that we had a Proto click-to-stop torque wrench (a
real monster) in the mechanics shop in high school, and IT broke too.
Anyone who's ever used Proto tools knows that they don't make junk... but
there it was, busted.  

I prefer the dial ones myself, you are right about them being hard to see
but that's not always a problem.  The hardest thing I had to do with ours
was the caliper bolts on our Olsmobeater, as there wasn't enough room to
deflect the handle...

You can also get a spotter to say 'stop' whn they see the needle at 60 (or
your eyes start to pop out)

Another cool trick- get a ratcheting extension, and use it with the dial
wrench.

-Malcolm
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