Bob wrote:
>other larger shop does radiator repair and general maintenance but only
>recommends "rodding" as a last resort, especially on older radiators.
>They'll flow test it, then some kind of "bath" and then flow & pressure test
>it - $55.
When I did one of mine last winter at a full service rad shop, they first
gave it the chem bath to get rid of the scale and crud inside. It is at
that point when they will most likely be able to detect lots of weak points
and pinholes where you will continue to have problems even if they patch
the "main" leaks. So some shops don't like to rod the tubes on an old one
because they know it will induce more leaks; even if rodding doesn't induce
more leaks, the full efficiency won't be there.
Unless your radiator has been kept in unusually good condition by all
previous owners, you should probably just ask them to recore the whole
thing, using your original top- and bottom-tanks (assuming they are ok).
There is a wholesale level in the rad repair industry where they
manufacture a whole new core and fins to fit the car spec using your tanks.
This is where your local shop gets the material to do your job. In San
Diego, this carry-in job cost me about $210 complete, using my two tanks,
including painting. I got it back in about 4 days. I retained the
originality of the nice English tanks so it is preferable to buying a new
catalog unit of uncertain quality, especially if you have a good local guy
who can make yours like new. Your first one lasted 24 years-- if you keep
the rebuilt radiator another 24 years it's just a few bucks a year for
peace of mind.
Glenn 74.5 TR6 X 2 (one since new)
San Diego
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