Check the spark the second the car stalls. If no spark see below for 'warmed
up' related ignition posibilities.
1. I'd look at the ignition coil an check for continuity across the poles(+ and
-) and through the primary the second it stalls. It may have a broken coil that
takes a while for the coil to 'open up' and killing the ignition. Get a new
coil if no continuity is found.
2. Same scenario on the condensor, it may be the culprit in that it takes a
while for the plates to 'jump the insulation gap' between them after heating
up. Replace condensor is the best test/solution.
If still good ignition. It must be gas related(possibly vapor locking after
warmed up). Pull the gas line before it goes into the T at the carbs and see if
gas comes out or a 'gap of air' and then gas. I've never had vapor lock so
someone that has would be more knowledgeable on diagnosis and solutions.
--
On Wed, 29 Dec 1999 23:53:46 Creigtrium wrote:
>
>In a message dated 12/29/99 10:54:31 AM Central Standard Time,
>Siegel@AllAmerican.com writes:
>
><<
> I got a problem with my TR6. I just had the engine rebuilt 3k miles ago.
>
> After the break in period the engine runs great. Now when the car is cold it
>
> starts up fine, but when it reaches operating temperature it stalls
>
> repeatedly, sort of like it is running out of gas. I have checked the fuel
>
> pump (pumping 2.5lbs of pressure), ignition(it is getting a good spark). I
>
> am absolutely dumbfounded as to what the problem is. Any insight would help.
>
> My mechanic did say I have some carburetor issues, but nothing that would
>
> warrant this type of problem.
>
> Paul Siegel >>
>A problem that I had one time similar to what you describe turned out to be
>the gaskets between the air filter and the carb. I put the gaskets on wrong
>and they covered up some air intake holes.
>
>Creig Houghtaling
>St. Louis, MO
>
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