Excellent technique!
By coincedence, my last attempt at leak proofing led me down the same path
verbatum(cleaning, overnight, pressures applied) with the exception of forming
the wall of silicone on the inside of the cork(whereas I simply did top and
bottom). Best luck so far but the rear of the head began to leak after a few
weeks. Here the oil appeared to be coming literally though the cork. I doubt
that was the actual case but the inner wall of silicone should take care of
that. I used the Permatex Ultra Copper but I guess any of the high temps will
do. When I get a new valve cover gasket I'll try the wall technique....thanks a
bundle!
--
On Sat, 18 Dec 1999 09:05:54 Power British Performance Parts, Inc. wrote:
>
>Steve Nabors wrote:
>
>> Dave,
>> I'd like to clean my TR6 engine but the drooling coninues no matter what.
>> I siliconed the top of the gasket=>oil comes through the bottom.
>> I siliconed top and bottom =>it comes right through the cork.
>> I'll be glad when theres a silicone gasket for my 6 cylinder.
>> Straight silicone glue(no cork) will be my next attempt.
>> To answer your question:
>>
>> J. M. WagnerSales,Ltd.
>> http://www.greenheart.com/jmwagner
>>
>> --
>>
>> David Lee wrote:
>> >for some reason i cant get my gasket to stop
>> >leaking. It was fine before I took it to the shop and now its just drooling
>> >all over the place. strange.
>> >
>> >thanks
>> >David Lee
>> >64 tr4
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>
>Steve and others having trouble sealing their valve covers,
>
>Here's a nifty trick I use on concours engines that makes for a nice looking
>installation and provides excellent sealing:
>
>Be sure to clean all the old sealer from around the valve cover lip. Wipe with
>degreaser. Place the cover upside down and apply a THIN bead of gasket sealer
>(I
>prefer Permatex Ultra Black for valve cover gaskets) to the inside edge of the
>flange
>that holds the gasket - the idea is to keep sealer from oozing out toward the
>outside
>of the gasket. Lay 6 drinking straws across the top of the cover and gently
>place the
>gasket on those. (If you've ever laminated a countertop, you get the idea how
>this
>works.) Now starting at the back end of the cover, carefully tape the gasket
>in place
>to the valve cover - use loops of 3M blue masking tape that peels off easily
>or you
>might tear some of the cork later. Continue taping equally on both sides
>until you
>get to the front, removing the straws as you go. You should now have a good
>seal
>between the thin bead of sealer and the cover. Turn the valve cover
>right-side up and
>place it on a nice, flat, clean surface. Put a medium weight on the top of
>the cover
>(I usually balance a gallon paint can or similar on top). Let dry overnight.
>Next
>day remove the tape. Your gasket is now glued to the valve cover and should
>now have
>a good flat surface on the bottom of the cork. Take more sealer and run a
>generous
>bead on the INSIDE VERTICAL surface of the gasket - not the bottom sealing
>surface,
>but the inner edge. Spread the bead with your finger so that you've got solid
>sealer
>filling the seam between gasket and cover. Hold your finger off the cork at
>the
>bottom to leave a ribbon of sealer hanging over the edge slightly. With
>practice, you
>should also be able to get a thin lip of sealer that sort of rolls over on the
>bottom
>of the cork - i.e. the sealing surface. If not, apply a very thin bead only
>around
>the inner bottom edge next to where you spread the sealer on the inside face.
>
>Wipe the top of the head with degreaser as well as the threads on the studs.
>Run a
>generous loop of sealer around the lower 1/3 of the threaded portion of the
>studs
>until you have a donut about 5/8" diameter sticking to the stud - this will
>stick to
>the underside of the valve cover. Don't skimp here - you need a good bead for
>best
>adhesion to the cover as you don't want the sealer to fall off down into the
>engine.
>Put the cover on, press it down with only moderate hand pressure, and tighten
>the nuts
>until they just touch the cover and NO FURTHER! Let the sealer do the work
>for you.
>If done successfully, you should now have a continuous wall of sealer bridging
>the
>cork from head to cover providing a thorough seal while giving the appearance
>on the
>outside that there's just cork with no sealer oozing out the edges.
>
>Not the easiest of procedures, but sure is a slick appearance and is very
>leakproof as
>well!
>
>Good luck!
>
>
>Regards,
>
>Brian Schlorff '61 TR-4 '64 TR-4 '72 TR-6 '79 Spit
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