Kinderlehrer wrote:
>
> 1. I took the rotors to the only guy that said he'd do it late Sat.
> afternoon, but after looking at them, he said they were pitted (definitley
> were at the edges) and if he machined them, they would come back worse and
> wouldn't be safe -not just the edges. Is he right?
Unless you have a specific problem to solve (vibration, pulsating pedal,
pulling, etc.), don't have the rotors turned. Once you give them to a
machinist to be turned, he is legally required to not return them to you
if they don't meet minimum thickness standards. (and IMO the legal
thickness requirement is too high.)
> 2. Why are TR3 rotors 3 times the price of TR4 rotors?
I'd guess supply and demand. Relatively few people buying new rotors
for TR3s, while the TR4 rotors also fit TR250,5,6, (probably lots of
other cars) which are still going a lot more miles.
BTW, I've disassembled cars that were using TR4 rotors with TR3
calipers. Seemed to work OK, although the pads wore funny and possibly
had to be replaced more often.
> 3. Why didn't I get a TR4?
Because the sidescreen TRs are much 'cooler' <g>
> 4. The pistons don't look pitted at all, but they do seem to have a healthy
> build up of crud in a ring about where they go into the caliper. Can this
> be removed, or am I into new pistons also?
Most likely, it can be removed. If the usual 'brake cleaner' won't take
it off, try carb cleaner (the kind with methylene chloride will take off
almost anything, including skin) and scrub gently with a 'brass
toothbrush'. Afterwards, wash with brake cleaner, then brake fluid, to
make sure all traces of carb cleaner are gone. If the surface is still
visually perfect (no crud, pits, wear, etc.) then you can reuse the
piston.
Randall
59 TR3A
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