Frank,
Check for vacuum leaks. Since the PO has removed much of the egr
plumbing, how is the system blanked off? The fault you describe is
almost always caused by either a vacuum leak, bypass valve, temp.
compensator or a combination of the three. Vacuum leaks are the most
common and can be difficult to find, so be thorough and methodical in
your search.
Good luck,
Jim Davis
Fortson, GA
CF38690UO
CF37325U
Bandre Frank Contractor AMC/SCP wrote:
>
> To the list:
>
> My 76 TR6 has no air pump or EGR valve (removed by some DPO). Recently, the
> idle speed has begun to increase as the engine heats up. When cold, it
> idles near 1100 rpm, but will increase to near 2000 when hot. Adjusting the
> dist to lower the rpms results in poor power and serious sputtering. Looking
> at the carbs, the temperature compensator cover on on of the carbs is broke.
> The fast idle screws are backed out fully and the idle screws are not
> touching the fast idle cams.
>
> Plan to rebuild (replacing all available gaskets) especially the decel valve
> and temperature compensator. Also, would badly adjusted metering needles
> (i.e. too lean) result in poor power with the dist set for the low rpms?
> Removing the vacuum lead to the dist does cause the rpms to increase, so it
> appears that the vacuum retard is working.
>
> Getting near the end of the driving season, but with temps in the 70s (south
> western Illinois) it a shame not to drive the car.
> TIA
>
> Frank
>
> '76 TR6 CF57005U
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