John :
I like (and use) a Cummins 178539WRZ. Haven't found anything it will
accurately cross-reference to, and had to buy it from a Cummins dealer, but
it is slightly thinner, and more flexible than the belts everyone seems to
sell for the TR3, which makes it a LOT easier to change. If you have the
original generator, there is no need to drop the mount, or to use a pry
bar. Since my Ford alternator is slightly larger than the stock generator,
I have to 'walk' the belt onto the pulley with the starter.
My first one finally broke the other day, after many years of service
(probably had something to do with my having the water pump out the week
before <g>), and I changed it on the side of the freeway, in about 10
minutes.
I believe Gates says that using a pry bar is a no-no, as it can break the
cords and cause early belt failure ... ISTR reading a service bulletin
saying that most cases of early belt failure were caused by the
(unfortunately common) practice of using pry bars ...
Randall
On Wednesday, September 22, 1999 4:53 AM, Day.John@fin.gc.ca
[SMTP:Day.John@fin.gc.ca] wrote:
>
> Good Morning, Listers (well, those in the western hemisphere, at least).
I
> have a question from a fellow club member who is changing his fan belt on
> his TR3A. Apparently he bought this belt from his 'mechanic', and is now
> finding that the belt will not go on, even with the generator bracket
> slackened all the way back. He said the mechanic uses a pry bar to
install
> these at the shop (!), but he has had no similar luck. I forget the
actual
> circumference of a 'proper' 3A belt, but I cannot believe this guy has
been
> sold the correct one if a pry bar is needed! Any make/model numbers you
> sidescreen guys are using (Dayco, others?). TIA
>
> Cheers, JD
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