Ken,
You don't have to remove the housing at all, only the 3 nuts from the studs
fixed to the housing to remove the pump (that was what I was confusingly
hinting at in my earlier post).
The TR6 Haynes manual is also confusing on this topic, but does say that
you can remove the "bearing housing" (pump to all us normal folks) well
into the pump removal step process, without removing the pump body. The
TR6 factory manual, however, is very clear that you should remove the pump
from the housing by the above method to service/replace (doesn't even offer
the housing/body removal as an option). Since I haven't seen the GT6
haynes/factory manuals, I can't suggest any reasons for any difference!
The only advantage of removing the housing is that it makes the fitting of
the nuts onto the studs a bit easier - the down side being you have a load
of hoses and the heater return feed pipe (which can be a pig to reconnect)
with all the usual problems that brings.
Tony Gordon
72 TR6
>
>Why do the manuals (Haynes and factory) want me to remove the
>entire water pump body from the block? Can't I merely remove
>the three water pump-to-body nuts and remove/replace the pump
>w/o removing the entire body?
>
>ken shapiro (baltimore)
>GT6+ KC81872L
>
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