as Jim steps up on his soapbox.........
As I understand vacuum retard it works like this. I'm hoping (sure)
I'll be corrected where I err.
As the engines spark lead requirements change (based on throttle opening
at a given load) the spark can advance or retard as needed. Remember
that most distributors have a centrifigal advance as well. This works
based on SPEED of the distributor.
An internal combustion, reciprocating, engine runs better (all things
being equal) when the spark is introduced EARLY in the combustion
process.
The problem with introducing it TOO early is pre-ignition. Pre-ignition
is not a good thing in that it can melt piston crowns, valve faces,
plugs. There ARE those in the automotive engineering world who maintain
that a LITTLE bit of pre-ignition is a good thing and they have been
known to arrest pre-ignition with a little spray of water (AKA water
injection).
Whew,
trip.
J
john donohoe wrote:
> Mine runs without the retard... (I don't mean the driver either). I
> blanked the bypass valves on my carbs to bring the idle down. Never
> have figured out the vacuum system. Maybe I should!
>
> John Donohoe
> '70 GT6+ KC81718
>
> --- "Shapiro - Kenneth J." <kshapiro@umd5.umd.edu> wrote:
> >
> >
> > My car keeps bumping up the RPMs once it gets warmed
> > up (GT6+)..
> > like to 2,000. Anyway, one on the group suggested
> > the vacuum
> > retard (I've got the Delco with the dual function
> > vacuum) could
> > be the problem...had been with his TR6. So, I went
> > out to check
> > mine, and it's not even connected. How critical is
> > that doo
> > hickey?
> >
> > ken
> > 1970 GT6+ KC81872L
> >
>
> Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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