material that is impervious to fuel. They advertise in Hemmings. I had
my TR4A tank done for about $175.00, and its been fine for nearly 5
years. I have also had other tanks done on classic and antique cars.
Good luck. Jerry Oliver.
Winnie Olmer wrote:
>
> The bottom of my TR6 tank has about 10-15 pinholes. The largest being 1/16"
> dia. The metal around the pinholes seems solid enough if there is a way to
> patch the holes and stop the rust. I have Eastwoods fuel tank sealer, but I
> need a way to seal the outside. Is there a gas resistant epoxy paste sort of
> product that can be used?
I have repaired two fuel tanks, using a combination of solder and the sealant
sold by Bill Hirsch with good results. The trick is to COMPLETELY eliminate the
old fuel which actually gets into the metal of an old porous tank. Steam
cleaning with lots of degreaser works for me, but if you're not confident of
your ability to remove all traces of fuel, it is worth the money to have it
done. One trick is to hook a hose to the exhaust of a car and then to the tank
and perform the soldering while the engine is running. This eliminates the
oxygen and prevents ignition. Having said that, the above warning still
applies. BTW, I've had no problem with the sealant.
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