Henry,
I swapped out the Tecalamite oil filter housing and substituted in the
"cleaned up" spare Puralator unit and the problem went away.
The behavior is still a little odd but I don't know what's normal.
I can actually hear the valve open and close and there is point when the
oil is full hot that a variable buzzing sound can be heard if you listen
closely. The noise occurs when the valve starts to function and when it is
in full "on". It is a very small band of RPM and the needle fluctuations
are minor.
BTW, in swapping the new spin-on oil filter adapter from one housing to the
other I revisited the instructions and used a different o-ring seal between
the housing and spin-on adapter. This solved my oil leak that I had fully
restored during the rebuild.
Thanks for all the hand holding and advice. I copied the list so they can
share in the outcome.
Brian Sanborn
62 TR4 CT16260L - Groton, MA
My TR4 Restoration Web Site
http://www.net1plus.com/users/sanborn/Home.html (Big Update on 6/13/99)
E-Mail: sanborn@net1plus.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Henry Frye <thefryes@iconn.net>
To: Brian Sanborn <sanborn@net1plus.com>
Date: Monday, June 21, 1999 12:34 PM
Subject: Re: TR4 Oil Pressure Gauge jumping
>Brian,
>
>This post was all good news, I'm glad to hear it!
>
>Did you get into the PRV? Any success?
>
>Do you have a Spin on oil filter adapter? THis post makes me think you do.
>If so, isn't the PRV part of the adapter? If so, can't you get parts for
it
>from the manufacturer?
>
>At 08:45 PM 6/18/99 -0400, you wrote:
>>Henry,
>>
>>The oil was clean... not even a hint of metal bits or phosphorescence in
>>the oil. Even the filter when turned over to drain would give up only
the
>>slightest hint of silvery-ness.
>>I did find my oil leak. The spin-on adapter was leaking at the joint
with
>>the filter housing.
>>
>>I ran out of will power. I will check out the PRV tomorrow morning,
>>
>>Brian Sanborn
>>62 TR4 CT16260L - Groton, MA
>>
>>My TR4 Restoration Web Site
>>http://www.net1plus.com/users/sanborn/Home.html (Big Update on 6/13/99)
>>E-Mail: sanborn@net1plus.com
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Henry Frye <thefryes@iconn.net>
>>To: Brian Sanborn <sanborn@net1plus.com>
>>Date: Friday, June 18, 1999 8:37 AM
>>Subject: Re: TR4 Oil Pressure Gauge jumping
>>
>>
>>>Hi Brian,
>>>
>>>I hope I am helping here! Sometimes it helps to bounce ideas around...
>>>
>>>At 07:56 PM 6/17/99 -0400, you wrote:
>>>>Thanks Henry,
>>>>
>>>>I am going to pull the Filter housing and see what's in the RV space.
I
>>am
>>>>changing the oil Friday PM and will check the contents and filter very
>>>>carefully.
>>>
>>>This is where I think you are going to find something. The PRV must be
>>>hanging up somehow. Be sure to inspect the seat that the ball sits in,
and
>>>the ball itself. Did you find a spring?
>>>
>>>Another thought. During your rebuild, did you take apart the PRV? I've
>>read
>>>books that say don't touch it, so I'm wondering if you didn't mess with
>>it.
>>>I'm guessing you did take it apart...
>>>
>>>>I will also bleed any air from the copper line. I does not happen
until
>>>>the oil is up to full heat. And it did not happen until about mile
180.
>>>
>>>I doubt this will do anything. But, it will not hurt!
>>>
>>>>The only correction to your description of my symptoms is the from/to
>>>>cycle.
>>>>
>>>>1. Engine cold 50+ at idle
>>>
>>>Interesting. I never really focused on this. My tired engine with a
>>>operating, properly adjusted PRV does about 60 at cold idle, and hits
>>70-75
>>>(prv opening) at maybe 2000 rpm's. I guess your 50+ is the same thing...
>>Or
>>>the guages are not THAT accurate. Yup, I'd say the you're fine here.
>>>
>>>>2. All the way up to 4000. No sign of RV operation. Can go up to 90+
>>>
>>>As discussed, generally considered not a good thing.
>>>
>>>>3. 15 minutes of driving. 50+ at idle.
>>>
>>>That's good
>>>
>>>>4. Goes up in smooth analog style to 75-80 to about
>>>> 2500 RPM (guessing on this number, will check)
>>>
>>>Sounds right by my experience.
>>>
>>>>5. Above that it starts a band of RPM (maybe 500) where the
>>>> needle jumps like a competition tach to 50 solid
>>>> and back to 75 about 2 times per sec
>>>
>>>Wow. Killer oscillations... How strange.
>>>
>>>>6. Above that it starts a solid peg to 50 and does not
>>>> fluctuate at all until I slow down and the jumping starts again
>>>> and then slower the normal analog smooth behavior resume.
>>>
>>>So, only when hot, when the oil is the thinned out by heat, we have
normal
>>>behaviour (except excess pressure) to 2500, then 2500 to 3000 we have
the
>>>wild oscillations, then a solid 50 above 3000.
>>>
>>>WAG time. (Don't worry, it is exactly what you want to hear!)
>>>
>>>You have a PRV problem.
>>>
>>>Could be the fact the adjustment is way out.
>>>
>>>Could be the spring has lost it's temper and when it gets hot it loses
>>>strength and can't keep the ball seated.
>>>
>>>Could be you have tiny flecks of some bearing material that are fouling
>>the
>>>PRV ball/seat. (doubtful, but worth thinking about) You probably do have
>>>some tiny flecks, as most rebuilds will shed some bearing material at
>>>initial run up. But, I seriously doubt the flecks will have made it to
the
>>>PRV!
>>>
>>>If you take apart the PRV and can measure the length of the PRV spring,
I
>>>have a new spring I ordered for my TR250 project. I can toss my caliper
on
>>>it for s reference point. Maybe it will work?
>>>
>>>I know your desire for originality. The obvious, easy solution since you
>>>can't find a Telcamite spring is to get a spin on oil filter adapter.
>>>
>>>Good luck.
>>> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
>>> Henry Frye - thefryes@iconn.net - Connecticut, USA
>>> Stag MkI Getting Sorted Out
>>> TR3B Driver
>>> TR250 X 3 The BIG Project - Will Be Worth the Wait
>>> Homepage http://members.iconn.net/thefryes/
>>
>>
>
>
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