alan, thanks for the head's up! my order of self-mutilating chemicals
arrives tomorrow! Tom
Alan Myers wrote:
>
> Listers...
>
> On the current project I am trying out the POR-15 family of products.
>
> Early observations:
>
> 1. This is some incredible stuff! (no financial interest, yada)
> 2. Heed warnings about getting it on your skin.
> 2a. Buy really good quality gloves! The cheap latex ones tear too
> easily.
> 2b. It really is possible to get some of the paint off skin, sort of, if
> you don't mind scrubbing with coarse steel wool or one of those plastic
> frying pan scrubbers.
> 2c. Especially watch out for splatters on your face.
> 2d. If it stays on steel the way it stays on skin, it's tough stuff.
> 2e. It quickly soaks thru clothing to the skin beneath.
> 3. Don't ask me how I know items 2-2e.
> 4. A little goes a long way: I guess-timated a quart per coat for a TR4
> frame, but it's all one solid coat of battleship gray with half that!
> (not to worry, will be topcoating with Chassis Coat, semi-gloss black)
> 5. Nice flow, brushed it on and I challenge you to find a brush stroke!
> 6. Like any painting project, preparation is 95% of the battle. All
> dirt, grease, old paint, etc., must be removed. I sandblasted,
> steel-wooled, wire-brushed, sanded & degreased for 3-4 days. (Ever tried
> to clean out the "box" in the center of a TR frame that the exhaust pipe
> passes thru?) Before coating, prep the metal with Metal Ready (marketing
> geniuses!), which seems to be a phosphoric acid solution that leaves
> behind a zinc coating, rinse with water & dry thoroughly. Painting took
> about 3 hrs with a 1" brush.
> 7. Nasty odors from all the prep stuff and the paint, so be sure to work
> in a well-ventilated space.
> 8. Plan to throw away used brushes. Cheap bristle seems to work well.
> I'd be reluctant to put this paint in an expensive spray gun! If you do
> spray, better be sure to trap *all* condensation and water before it
> gets to the gun.
> 9. Use plastic wrap or similar when you reseal the can, so metal is not
> in contact with metal. Otherwise, one drop of the paint in the seal will
> weld the lid on permanently.
> 10. Stir the paint, don't shake the can.
> 11. Pour out the amount of paint you can work with in about 15-20 min.,
> into a plastic pan or similar, and reseal the original can to keep from
> starting the curing process.
> 12. Moisture and water cause this paint to cure harder. You'll find this
> out particularly in the shower, about the same time you discover how
> efficiently POR-15 soaks thru a shirt.
> 13. Practice explaining "Why yes, in fact I did get this tattoo to match
> my car" or "It's camouflage".
>
> I'll keep you informed, but, no, I won't post pictures of my new
> tattoos!
>
> Alan Myers
> San Jose, Calif.
> HMS '62 TR4 CT17602L
>
> --
> MZ
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