Alan and list,
The Triumph factory supplied part # 30123 "Wire (lead) under nut",
to seal the head stud/washer/nut assy. I still have some of the roll
that I was given for my TR3 National Championship Road Racing Car
by the Triumph Zone Parts Manager. I have used it on many TR
motor rebuilds. The TR2/3 part book lists "No. per unit" as "A/R",
and those of us lucky enough to pull a TR head for the first time
since the factory built the motor will attest to the lead wire being
used on the production line.
The factory lead wire is solid, soft, and 1/16" (0.062") OD.
Solid solder wire looks identical.
And now for the bad news: The work shop manual gives no torque
for installing the head studs into the block. This is not ideal, because
cracks are quite common on the top of the block traveling outward from
the head stud holes, often reaching the water jacket and/or the oil feed
hole. With good light and a clean top of the block, these cracks are
visible. Over tightening the studs into the block even onceis one cause
of this problem.
The block that I used to win the National Runoffs has had one such
crack since a year before that event, and is still in the race car. I use
silicone seal over the crack in the water jacket, a very light coat of
anti-seize on the stud to block threads, and the lead wire under the head
nuts.
Good Luck In Advance
HP
-----original message--------
I have just finished rebuilding my TR4A engine and have found a little bit
of water under the valve cover. Closer inspection reveals small drops of
water forming on two of the head stud nuts (through the threads) and then
draining to the top surface of the head to form about a .375" diameter
puddle. This happens after about 20 minutes of running. The only two
doing this are the most rearward and the middle ones under the cover. I
believe they both the 5" studs that mount in the face of the block. I
pulled the head and inspected the gasket and found what I believe to be
potential areas for leakage and I had installed the gasket flat side up.
What I men by flat side, is the side that does not have he folded over
copper around the edges of features. I then installed a new gasket flat
side down and still have the same problem.
Both the head and block were checked for cracks when they were serviced and
the head had a small skim taken off of the mounting surface to clean it up.
Does any one out there have any suggestions about a new course of action or
experience with a problem of this type. I don't want to dig in too deep if
there is something simple I am missing.
Thanks in advance.
Alan Faulkner
68 TR4A (67) CTC76631 L
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