<<I ran into a problem after draining the engine coolant out of my '66
TR-4A. The tap on the side of the engine block turned easily, but no fluid
came out, so I went after the opening with a paperclip and dislodged
whatever had blocked the flow. However, now the tap won't close
effectively. The handle is loose, and in the closed position fluid must be
dripping out when the car is running, as I am losing coolant every time I
drive. Once or twice there was a puddle of coolant below the tap and the
starter case is also stained.
This is very different than the tap on my TR-3A, which I can barely
move. Has anyone else run into this problem? Is the tap rebuildable?
(The part is out of stock at Moss and TRF.) Were you able to get it off
the block? It looks like it would be difficult to get a wrench onto. It
would be a major bummer if it were stuck or if I stripped the threads
trying to get it out.
Thanks for the help.
John Cowan>>
John
Mine came out simply with a cresent wrench. Mine is solid brass and it was
hard to open the valve too. When I got it out I noticed it had a very strong
and stiff spring below and the 'stop piece' below was a bit mangled from me
not knowing which way to turn the handle when attempting to open valve over
several years (now I filed a little arrow on handle so I will know which way
to turn it when it's back in place). I straightened out the mangled and
jamming 'stop' piece underneath and when I tried to clear the spring
entanglement it broke into pieces. I dug around in my 'bits bucket' and put
on a better spring (I believe) and put a little 'anti-sieze' on the valve
spigot part that 'revolves'. We'll see in a few months when my engine is
rebuilt if it leaks - if so I will remove 'anti-sieze' lubricant and use it
as it was designed - 'brass on brass'.
Carl
'64 TR4 since '74 and anxious to get on the road!
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