I will be geting my TR6 back this week, after about three years in the paint
/ body shop, rebuild engine, complete rebuild. I will be driving it for 500
miles before I return it for final adjustments. The engine will have a Babe
Erson Cam (BFE. 149) grind. 10 to 1 compression head ratio, headers and
freeflow. Other than a new modern auto, I have never driven a car while
engine is breaking in, especially a TR6 engine. What should I expect? Will
the engine run rough with the cam, until adjusted, will I burn oil ? I am
using Zennith Strombergs, with longflow filters for now. Thanks from the
list, I'm excited.
Phl Smith
TR^
-----Original Message-----
From: Martin Secrest <msecrest@erols.com>
To: Rengrave@aol.com <Rengrave@aol.com>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, May 15, 1999 2:44 AM
Subject: Re: TR6 Engine Re-build
>
>Rengrave@aol.com wrote:
>>
>> Hello Listers,
>> After hearing different opinions on and off the list about whether or not
I
>> should rebuild my engine or just replace the scored crankshaft, I have
>> decided to rebuild the entire engine. Hey why not, the engine is the only
>> part of the car I haven't touched yet.
>> My question is:
>> Do I dive in and rebuild the engine myself (with borrowed tools and
engine
>> stand from trusting friend), or do I drop off the engine at my local
engine
>> service shop and let them have all the fun?
>> How much will I save if I do the work myself?
>> I spoke with BPNW this week and figure I will be spending about $500 on
>> reground crank and bearings, piston rings, cam shaft, lifters, rocker arm
>> with rockers and gaskets.
>>
>> Can anyone tell me what I should expect to pay and any pointers for the
>> rebuild, I plan on using the Haynes Manual as a guide.
>>
>> Wayne from Massachusetts
>> 1973 TR6 Mallard/New Tan
>
>Hey Wayne:
>
>If the motor has to come out, it should definitely be rebuilt.
>
>A guess is that an engine rebuild will cost you in the neighborhood of
>$2,000, give or take $500. I would use no one, however, who does
>not rebuild LBC motors as a practice. The price also depends on what you
put
>in the motor, of course; hardened seats and such will of course cost more.
I
>would definitely do (or have done) one thing that is cheap and well worth
the
>money: have the thrust washers pinned to the block. These
fellas-falling-out
>are often the source of wrecked motors and/or very expense repairs to the
>block face.
>
>Also be warned that if you are lifting the motor/tranny from the car
yourself,
>some listers have encountered failure in the rearward lifting eye (i.e., it
>breaks under load). Make sure yours looks OK. I forget what the
alternative
>lifting arrangement is; you can ask the list. You'll also be ahead of the
>game if your engine hoist tilts to accommodate removing/installing the
motor
>at an angle.
>
>Having said this, rebuilding an engine is fun and rewarding, providing you
do
>it slowly, keep things clean and assume nothing. IMHO, there are very few
parts
>I would reuse, and I'd want the motor line bored and balanced, head ported,
>and I'd think about a new cam and carburetion.
>
>But once you've got the engine back in the car, and put the key in the
ignition that
>first time, having it come to life is a fine moment in time -- ain't it,
Englebert?
>
>--
>Martin Secrest
>72 TR6
>73 GT6
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