Load it up with penetrating oil, then try moving it on the bolt with the
vise grips.
Repeat as often as required. Be patient.
I don't know how thick the sleeve is, but if it's not really thick,
squeezing it with the vise grips while soaking it with oil might speed
things up.
canada wrote:
> Hello again, Listers--
>
> This is more in the category of basic mechanical skills, which aren't to
> be found at my house.
>
> I'm replacing the rubber diff mounts on my 76 TR6, which have gotten
> pretty sponge-like over the years. The rear mounts are on metal sleeves
> which fit over studs mounted to the chassis. You guessed it--one of the
> sleeves is rusted solid to the stud. This is in a VERY awkward spot, up
> under the deck that the gas tank sits on. It is complicated by the fact
> that I'm trying to do this job on jackstands without removing the
> exhaust system (as Bentley's recommends) and it looked like I might just
> get away with it. I ripped all the rubber off, so only the sleeve
> remains. I can just get a set of vice grips on the sleeve, but it's not
> going anywhere as long as it's rusted to the stud. I am thinking about
> finding a tall medicine tube that will just fit over the stud and sleeve
> and filling it with either penetrating oil or phosphoric acid, then
> duct-taping it to the underside of the car. The rusted sleeve would be
> bathed in either oil or acid overnight and MIGHT let go.
>
> Anyone have any better ideas or favorite home remedies for a problem
> like this? (I considered heating it with a torch, but it's immediately
> below the gas tank.) Any thoughts on my approach?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Ian CF57345U
--
George Richardson
The Wyvern - '57 TR3, TS15559L - http://www.merlingroupinc.com/tr3.htm
The Hippogrif - '71 Stag MKI, LE8176E - soon to get a site of it's own
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