Lee Janssen wrote:
>It should be noted that for both of the pinion nuts that I have removed it
>required almost no torque to back off the nut. I can only guess that the
>spacers have worn down and the effective pinion nut torque has decreased. I
>won't even begin to guess what the correct torque should be since the spacer
>wear will vary from unit to unit. I simply reinstalled the nut to 10 foot
>pounds, 120 inch pounds like the happy idiot that I am. So far I've got 6000
>miles on the unit with no problem .... YET!
Wow. Am I ever confused! Seriously, I think I've got it now. Suffice it
to say that I'll be using the BIG torque wrench on this one!
I guess the only question I've left to ask pertains to the following advice
from Randall Young:
>IMO, if you're putting back the same pinion and shims you took out, the
>preload is probably OK. However, since getting it badly wrong will ruin
>the bearings (possibly more), I'd at least make a stab at checking it. You
>can buy a 1/4" torque wrench from HF that will do, or even get a pretty
>good guess by just hanging a 1/2" ratchet and socket on it. If you can
>feel some resistance, but the ratchet handle will fall of it's own weight
>from horizontal to vertical (while turning the nut), the pre-load is
>reasonably close.
In this case all I did was remove the nut so that I could remove the pinion
flange seal. I haven't moved the pinion shaft at all. So from this should
I assume that 90 to 120 foot pounds will get the right pre-load, or do I
need to order shims?
Keep in mind that IF this diff is the OEM unit, then it's probably got
175,000 miles on it by now. The number on the casing is CD56264, and TRF
seems to think this might be a 1970-vintage diff and my TR6 is a '73.
I really had no idea I was opening such a can of worms. Maybe when I'm
done messing with it I'll feel more comfortable with the idea of rebuilding
the whole diff myself someday.
Thanks for all the help!!
Pete Chadwell
1973 TR6
|