Hi, Rodney,
Had this problem on a Scimitar (same suspension/brakes as a TR). It
turned out that the calipers were incorrectly shimmed and weren't
central over the discs. The cure was to remove the calipers and add
shims under the mounting bolts.
Another thought: are your caliper pistons in good shape? Reformation of
the seals and (sometimes) pad knock back are the only things that
'switch your brakes off'. You could try taking the pads out and have
someone gently press the pedal. Then, see if the pistons return with
reasonable force.
Good Luck,
Dave Hill
Rodney Orr wrote:
>
> Brian,
> What about collapsed brake lines? Even if they look OK from the outside,
> the insides can apparently collapse, preventing the fluid from returning
> and keeping the pressure on. Out of curiosity had you also changed fluid
> type to silicone? Even if your lines look OK, its probably good advice to
> replace them if they're pretty old, which is what I did when it was time
> for a new MC.
> YMMV,
> Rod. '70 TR6 CC55899L
>
> At 14:34 03/05/1999 -0600, Brian Borgstede wrote:
> >
> >List,
> >
> >The 250 needed a new master cylinder, I got a rebuild from Apple.
> >After all the inspecting, twisting off of bleed screws, wheel cylinder
> >rebuilding,
> >I was off on my first ride. The front brakes won't let go! I took the car
> >in and pried
> >the calipers open, but as soon as I hit the brakes they clamped down tight
> >and won't
> >let go. How do I check the gap between the MC and the booster? I think
> >the front hoses are
> >in good shape. what else should I be looking at?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Brian
> >
> >
> >~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> > NEW E-MAIL ADDRESS: borgstede@umsl.edu
> >
> >Brian Borgstede I
> >Telecommunications Engineer, I '68 Triumph
> >University of Missouri, St. Louis I
> >Instructional Technology Center I TR-250
> >Phone: (314) 516-6433 I (or 2 or more)
> >Fax: (314) 516-5294 I
> >
> >
> >
> >
|