Henry wrote:
[snip]Then I opened the throttle a crack and got the RPM's up to about
2200 on the tach. I adjusted the Air Flow Meter for more air, and measured
each carb again. As I suspected, the carbs are now out of sync. The meter
read 10 on the rear carb, and 14 on the front carb.
The accelerator linkage on a TR3 acts on the front of the front carb's
throttle shaft. There are two of these coupler joints between the carbs.
There is undoubtedly some slop in the couplers, and as a result, the carb
butterflys are in sync at idle, but not once you crack the throttle open.
The front carb is pulling more air.
It appears I can't get perfect synchronization at both idle and at speed.
Then, what is the optimum setting? Split the difference so both idle and at
speed are somewhat sacrificed? Or sacrifice the idle and go for perfect
synchronization at speed??? It would seem that being in sync at idle and
being farther out of sync with the throttle open is not the best way to set
it up. If this was a race car, I know that answer. ;-)
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For street driving, I'd go with the sync'd idle or split the
difference. You'll spend more time at stop lights and tooling along
at low revs where you will need the sync. My $.02 worth.
Ross Vincenti
Triumph-less for now
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