Tom :
Don't know about Koni's, but I've seen other shocks supplied with the
stamped sheet metal jam nut. Obviously, it did the job <g>
There should be flats on the end of the shock shaft suitable for either
a special socket, or a pair of vise grips <g> If they are missing, you
could create some with a file or die grinder, dremel, etc.
IMO, if the lever shocks are stiff and smooth throughout the range, with
no looseness when changing direction, they are probably OK. At least
enough to put back on the car with your new links, etc. and try.
Randall
maineac wrote:
>
> Just a quick question -- how can you tell if the rear shocks on a TR6 are
> going (or gone)? I took mine off today and they feel really firm when I
> move the lever up and down. I don't know what the PO did (or didn't do),
> but I've been tooling around with it for abut 5 years now, and the shock
> links are kaput, and I suspect that there hasn't been much done to the
> shocks either, but I an quite surprised to find them so "stiff". Is there
> some test that shows worn or weak shocks that a backyard mechanic can do?
> I don't want to enrich Apple Hyd. if I don't have to.
>
> I have a hard time sorting out whether I bought this car from a PO or a
> DPO. I think the front shocks are Konis (the paint on them is the right
> color of red/orange), so I start to think htat maybe the guy wasn't a total
> numbie, but then I go to remove the top nut on the shock and I find that he
> used one of those stamped sheet metal nuts that are for holding lamp
> sockets together for a jam-nut! So what's with that? Oh yeah, if anyone
> has a secret method of removing the top nut on the shock (the entire "rod"
> keeps turning, and the nut is really tight), please share it. Did you know
> that rust is the poor man's locktite?
>
> Tom Walling
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