>From page 449 of the Bentley reprint of the TR2/3 factory manual (should
be the same for solid axle TR4A) :
<begin quote>
(b) Refitting the Rear Wheel Cylinder
Mount the wheel cylinder on to the backplate with the neck through the
large slot. Replace the distance piece between cylinder neck and
backplate, with the open end away from handbrake lever location. The
two cranked lips must also be away from the backplate.
Insert the spring plate between the distance piece and backplate, also
with open end away from handbrake lever location and the two cranked
lips away from the backplate.
Replace handbrake lever. Locate the retaining plate between the
distance piece and spring plate (open end towards the handbrake lever),
tap into position until the two cranked tips of the spring plate locate
in the retaining plate.
Fit the rubber dust cover. Attach the pressure pipe union to the
cylinder and connection to the handbrake lever. Replace the shoes,
brake drum, and bleed the system. Finally re-fit wheels.
<end quote>
>From the diagram, it appears that the 'distance piece' is the smallest
of the three clips. The 'retaining plate' is the one with the notches
in the back edge. The 'spring plate' is the other large clip.
Randall
Andrew Mace wrote:
>
> On Sat, 27 Mar 1999 Ct54531@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Is there a set or preferred procedure or a fixed sequence for putting on the
> > flanges and dust cover when reinstalling the rear wheel cylinders. The car
>is
> > a 65 4A - live axle.
> > Thanks.
>
> The factory workshop manual isn't much help here: "Re-assemble the brake
> components by reversing the removal procedure." Great. :-)
>
> I've usually started the bottom one (whose open end should face away from
> the cable end of the handbrake lever) and then started the top one (faces
> the opposite direction, of course), then pushed each towards "home" with
> screwdrivers. It might take some gentle tapping to finally seat them, but
> it's not too difficult. Presumably you've lubricated the sliding surfaces
> first with a white lithium or other similar grease, since the cylinder
> MUST be free to slide.
>
> Then fit the dust cover. Don't be like yours truly, who over the years
> has probably connected at least three or four steel brake pipes or hoses
> (depending on model) before realizing that the dust cover really should
> have gone on first! :-(
>
> --Andy
>
> * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
> * Andrew Mace, President and *
> * 10/Herald/Vitesse (Sports 6) Consultant *
> * Vintage Triumph Register <www.vtr.org> *
> * amace@unix2.nysed.gov *
> * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
|