In a message dated 3/15/99 10:35:45 PM !!!First Boot!!!,
arthurhsmith@compuserve.com writes:
<< Bob Stahlbush writes
>do a POR-15 repair.
>or drill 1/8" to 3/16" diameter holes 3" apart around and fill the
holes with weld
>Viola....done.
>>been crash tested (?) and holds up well says the person recomending. any
>one try it?????
> the arthur >>
Arthur:
I'm not a Triumph guy, but I subscribe to this list to learn more about
problems that are common to all LBCs.
I have done a floor repair on my Jensen-Healey using a
bonding/riveting/bolting method. We wire brushed the rust from the sound
areas and then used a converter followed by primer and topcoat. Then we cut
out the "unsound" area and had a metal-smith fashion top and bottom plates,
that overlapped the area, from galvanized steel. These were fixed in place by
a generous coat of structural adhesive (like HD liquid nail) with a number of
rivets and 1/4 inch bolts that were dabbed with silicone sealer before
insertion in their holes. We followed up with a generous layer of rubberized
undercoat on the bottom of the chassis.
I didn't have a large area to cover, and we weren't doing a complete tear
apart, so I felt this was safer (fuel lines were in close proximity) and
simpler than using a torch. It probably takes longer doing it this way,
however. Haven't sent the car out to be crash tested, yet, and I don't have a
plans to do so. This was done 6 years ago, however, and it looks the same
today as it did when we finished it. No rattles (from this area, anyway) and
it has stayed weather tight.
Good luck,
Robin Oldfield
St. Louis, MO
74 Jensen-Healey
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