Pete & Aprille Chadwell wrote:
>
>...I've had it in my mind that whenever I end up putting new
> rotors on the TR6, I'd maybe have this done to them.
>
> Any thoughts? Anyone know how deep and wide those grooves would need to be
> to get the maximum effect without damaging the integrity of the rotors?
>
> Again, we're talking about avoiding PAD FADE here...
>
>
Hi Pete,
What about having the rotors cross-drilled (in a radial pattern) instead
of grooving? I would guess the biggest part of brake fade comes from
overheating of the pads and rotors, anything that would help reduce heat
would help reduce/prevent fade. Motor cycle shops can do this and it
sounds a lot simpler/cheaper than the grooving you descrbe.
Also, on my TR4, I simply removed the dust shield behind the rotor to
improve cooling. I also like the semi-metallic pads (I always get the
best semi-met. I can find, not the budget brands) & would only consider
the kevlar/carbon/un-obtanium/kryptonite/diamond-coated type for actual
racing due to high wear on the rotors.
Of course, until I get the car off the jackstands in the garage, I could
use wooden brake pads, for that matter (like they use on the cable cars
in San Francisco)! ;-)
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
'62 TR4 CT17602L
MZ
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